Re calibrating Starrett 98 level

ltlvt

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
1,143
I replaced the bubble with a new one from Starrett. Now I am trying to calibrate it. Not having a known absolute level surface to use I am doing the old rotate the level until you find the level spot then proceed to adjust it. As you can see in the pictures there are shots of the level on the same marks (Mostly to keep me from getting confused). So knowing what the pictures are telling me what the next move should be?. I've tried on my own and seems like when i use the nuts on the adjustable end I can't get enough down adjustment to move the bubble in the correct direction. BTW I have less hair than I did when I woke up this morning.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2946.JPG
    IMG_2946.JPG
    199.1 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_2943.JPG
    IMG_2943.JPG
    293.9 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_2944.JPG
    IMG_2944.JPG
    296.7 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_2945.JPG
    IMG_2945.JPG
    303.3 KB · Views: 35
Start at the beginning. That looks like the table of your mill that you are working on. I can see some nicks and scratches that could have an effect on level. Every scratch or dent has an area around it that is raised, the metal that was in the dent had to go somewhere. Using a precision stone will get rid of the high spots so that you are starting from a flat smooth surface.

IF the adjustment range of the level can not bring in the bubble there are 2 possibilities. It could be one or both.

Is the new glass installed correctly?
Is your machine simply that far out of level?

Start out with a cheap level to be sure that your machine is at least in the ball park.Instead of starting out by finding the spot that shows level try to find a spot that is a similar reading when you turn the level around. One you get that close then you can start again by finding level. In the vid above you can see that where he starts out with the bubble centered and make a bunch of adjustment he then finds a new line of level and that new position in nearly 90° from the line he started with.
 
Was the new level vial encased in the metal sleeve when you got it? If so, it should be within the range of adjustability with the two nuts. You need to find a reasonably level surface to begin the reversing and adjusting process. Something to get it close might be to measure from the base to the top of the vial housing and get it as parallel as possible.
 
Was the new level vial encased in the metal sleeve when you got it? If so, it should be within the range of adjustability with the two nuts. You need to find a reasonably level surface to begin the reversing and adjusting process. Something to get it close might be to measure from the base to the top of the vial housing and get it as parallel as possible.
No the bubbles come naked. I cleaned the tube out well and put the paper and bubble back inside the tube and then plastered it as is recommended.
 
No the bubbles come naked. I cleaned the tube out well and put the paper and bubble back inside the tube and then plastered it as is recommended.
Yes, that is what I have done when replacing vials. It helps to have another level of known accuracy to level a surface, like a machine table or surface plate and use that surface as a reference to adjust the repaired level, I have a short #98 to use that way and also a Pratt & Whitney that is graduated to ,0005 PF. I find that the #98 is not really sensitive enough for final machine leveling.
 
I replaced the bubble with a new one from Starrett. Now I am trying to calibrate it. Not having a known absolute level surface to use I am doing the old rotate the level until you find the level spot then proceed to adjust it. As you can see in the pictures there are shots of the level on the same marks (Mostly to keep me from getting confused). So knowing what the pictures are telling me what the next move should be?. I've tried on my own and seems like when i use the nuts on the adjustable end I can't get enough down adjustment to move the bubble in the correct direction. BTW I have less hair than I did when I woke up this morning.
you have hair? :p
it seems like the glass must not be in there correctly if you can't get in range. Maybe some old glue or caulking.
did you clean the tube out completely? Run a powered brass brush in or stainless steel brush.
 
you have hair? :p
it seems like the glass must not be in there correctly if you can't get in range. Maybe some old glue or caulking.
did you clean the tube out completely? Run a powered brass brush in or stainless steel brush.
I cleaned it thoroughly and paid attention to putting the vial in with the curve (high side to the top) it could be that the plaster did not set evenly on both ends. . I may have to order a new vial and try again because I seriously doubt the vial can be removed without damage. BTW plenty of hair on my face and sides of my head it is the hair on top that has abandoned me.
 
Yes, that is what I have done when replacing vials. It helps to have another level of known accuracy to level a surface, like a machine table or surface plate and use that surface as a reference to adjust the repaired level, I have a short #98 to use that way and also a Pratt & Whitney that is graduated to ,0005 PF. I find that the #98 is not really sensitive enough for final machine leveling.
I have 2 other 98's a 12" and an 8" but would sure like to get this little 6" calibrated. I had one of Shars .0005 levels but sent it back and got my money back. They checked it for me and said it would not calibrate and then said it would. So having no faith that it would be okay I asked for a replacement. They would not replace it and refunded my money. Why would they say at first it would NOT Calibrate and then change their story.

It took a while after that for me to buy anything else from Shars.
 
I have 2 other 98's a 12" and an 8" but would sure like to get this little 6" calibrated. I had one of Shars .0005 levels but sent it back and got my money back. They checked it for me and said it would not calibrate and then said it would. So having no faith that it would be okay I asked for a replacement. They would not replace it and refunded my money. Why would they say at first it would NOT Calibrate and then change their story.

It took a while after that for me to buy anything else from Shars.
well, it may have been who worked or validated it not knowing what to do. Or it may have been BS.. who knows. Doesn't give you a good feeling.
 
Back
Top