Quick Bridgeport question....

Jakedaawg

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So, I bought a couple non running bridgeports from a customer I trust. One has a locked spindle, this is the "parts " machine. The other has a bad motor and appears to be in good shape. Neither came with the handle to raise the knee.

I bought the renovation book someone recommended here. I am starting with the bad machine.

Would it be an issue if I chucked my 1/2" drill motor on the shaft that you turn to raise the knee? I can turn it by hand but it will ruin my wrist to do it that way. I have to raise it about 14". This is to follow the steps in the renovation book. To remove the quill housing you are supposed to raise the table to support it while you remove the clamping bolts.

What say the folks here? I am pretty sure that if I chuck it tight it wont spin on the shaft and it does move by hand, it's just alot of twisting without a handle.
 
Wouldn't be any different than a power feed on the knee . :)
 
Tubalcain (Mr. Pete) Shop Tips #203 and #204 show him making an adapter that he uses with a power drill. It'll work.
 
I built that very adapter for my 18V Milwaukee drill motor to the knee crank. Works GREAT. My wrist and elbows were ecstatic about their relief from duty. I have used it for as long as I have had the mill.

Last weekend, I needed to send the knee of my Millrite to the bottom of its travel. The first time I did it, I was moving slow and cautious as I approached the bottom of knee travel. Got it, on with the job.
20 minutes, and 10 processes later, I needed to send the knee to the bottom of its travel again. I disrespected the speed and power of the drill motor, and failed to see the end of travel approaching.

That was last Sunday. Today, Thursday, I can finally use my right thumb to button my pants. I still cannot brush my teeth with my right hand, or do that daily "paperwork" :rolleyes:. Spend a week "going Lefty" on that job :eek 2:

Most of us on this site have experienced a drill bit hanging up as it cuts the outermost diameter of the hole it cuts. We have come to know it, and sense it, and be wary of the inevitable "grab". More than a few thumbs have been educated thusly, I know.

When you use the drill motor for tasks OTHER than drilling, pay attention to the fact the torque the motor has is still there, and can still twist your hand up in ways you wish you did not know.
 
I built that very adapter for my 18V Milwaukee drill motor to the knee crank. Works GREAT. My wrist and elbows were ecstatic about their relief from duty. I have used it for as long as I have had the mill.

Last weekend, I needed to send the knee of my Millrite to the bottom of its travel. The first time I did it, I was moving slow and cautious as I approached the bottom of knee travel. Got it, on with the job.
20 minutes, and 10 processes later, I needed to send the knee to the bottom of its travel again. I disrespected the speed and power of the drill motor, and failed to see the end of travel approaching.

That was last Sunday. Today, Thursday, I can finally use my right thumb to button my pants. I still cannot brush my teeth with my right hand, or do that daily "paperwork" :rolleyes:. Spend a week "going Lefty" on that job :eek 2:

Most of us on this site have experienced a drill bit hanging up as it cuts the outermost diameter of the hole it cuts. We have come to know it, and sense it, and be wary of the inevitable "grab". More than a few thumbs have been educated thusly, I know.

When you use the drill motor for tasks OTHER than drilling, pay attention to the fact the torque the motor has is still there, and can still twist your hand up in ways you wish you did not know.
Yeah, yeppers. I now have mine on an old Ryobi corded drill with the clutch set so it 'kind of' disengages before twisting my wrist off.
 
Dang, those have gone up. Bought one off eBay a few years ago and it was $19. And has a finish coat of something or another on it.
And mine is Steel not aluminum...
 
I agree that a drill will work to raise and lower the knee. However, in your original question it sounded like you want to use the drill chuck directly on the shaft of the knee adjuster. I would caution against that, it could slip and gall the shaft and damage it. You will need a proper adapter anyway, I would just order one.
Ryan
 
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