Question? That I'm Sure Has Been Beat To Death

danny12 said:
Thanks Phil that's what I was planning on doing.



I am however worried about parting stuff off I don't understand the difference between the parting blades and holders. It seems like higher quality may be better here or a specific style with this smaller machine.

And was mostly asking, if you were to be in the market for a set of insert tool holders considering the price of inserts and interchangabality between turning and boring what would you suggest.

Again thanks to all for the quick replys

Danny
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Danny,

Since you asked about parting tools here is a few photos that I lifted from Ebay. I'm sure that some of the real experts can chime in and give you some advise.

I bought a QCTP set that came with a parting blade holder.
s-l225.jpg
392.jpg
For the life of me, I always had problems with this style holder actually holding onto the parting blade. I don't know if it's the style of holder that is the issue or if it's just a messed up example of a copy of one of the major manufacturers. For a while I went back to using the old style lantern type holder. This style is what I learned on, and is what was used on manual machines for decades in thousands of shops.
s-l225.jpg

Then I came across a NOS parting tool block that takes parting blades w/carbide inserts. This isn't a great example of the tool block but it's the best one that shows the profile. The only reason I use this is new one instead of the old style is the ease in just dropping it into the QCTP and not having to swap the QCTP with the lantern post.
s-l200.jpg

here is a shot of the "self grip" insert holder
s-l200.jpg

I hope this helps.

Mike
 
There is no question tat the holder that you show "Self Grip" will hold its companion blade and tip much more Securely than the Aloris type holder that you show; I have used all types for about 50 years now, and the Self Grip being dovetailed into its holder guarentees that it is not going to fall out, although the tip sometimes does fall out of the blade if not driven in fully. In parting, generally, the worst is the Armstrong angled type, if a lantern tool post is used with the ring and rocker; if the tool sticks in the cut, it pulls the blade down with the rocker and it skews sideways, nearly always breaking to parting tool if the machine has enough power to do it; this can be mostly cured buy using a solid ring of the correct thickness to hold the tool on center. Also it helps to use T type parting tools, they are relieved on the sides better than the common tapered type. Blades that are ground all over are better than those that appear to have been merely cast to shape as one sometimes sees; they are much more likely to bind up and cause problems.
Finally, I wonder if the blade you are using in your Aloris type holder is really the proper one for the holder, so far as the size and fit; I have had them come loose from my holder, but rarely, and I think mostly when the blade becomes a little dull and draws to one side of the cut. I bought the insert type holder and blade from Aloris and was not happy with the performance of it and the cost of inserts and how many were broken and dulled, and I set it aside for a long time. It is possible that the learning curve of technique as to how to use them was so much different than HSS that if I had stuck with it I might have mastered it; later an employee started using the Self Grip that I had bought in a spectacular deal of a pickup load of tools that I bought, and I followed and now can use them with speed and economy.
Still there is the question as to what sort of machines they are appropriate to use on, and light weight low powered machines may not be appropriate for their use. On my 9" 1920s Monarch, I use HSS tools, on my 19" Regal Leblond I mostly use the Self Grip.
 
Thanks Reeltor,
I'm thinking that the Nos style you posted with a hss blade of some style (ground, T, p1, p2 or whatever else is available) lol may work better for my little feller.

This is where you chime in with a suggestion on the blade. Haha

Thanks again
 
benmychree said:
There is no question tat the holder that you show "Self Grip" will hold its companion blade and tip much more Securely than the Aloris type holder that you show; I have used all types for about 50 years now, and the Self Grip being dovetailed into its holder guarentees that it is not going to fall out, although the tip sometimes does fall out of the blade if not driven in fully. In parting, generally, the worst is the Armstrong angled type, if a lantern tool post is used with the ring and rocker; if the tool sticks in the cut, it pulls the blade down with the rocker and it skews sideways, nearly always breaking to parting tool if the machine has enough power to do it; this can be mostly cured buy using a solid ring of the correct thickness to hold the tool on center. Also it helps to use T type parting tools, they are relieved on the sides better than the common tapered type. Blades that are ground all over are better than those that appear to have been merely cast to shape as one sometimes sees; they are much more likely to bind up and cause problems.
Finally, I wonder if the blade you are using in your Aloris type holder is really the proper one for the holder, so far as the size and fit; I have had them come loose from my holder, but rarely, and I think mostly when the blade becomes a little dull and draws to one side of the cut. I bought the insert type holder and blade from Aloris and was not happy with the performance of it and the cost of inserts and how many were broken and dulled, and I set it aside for a long time. It is possible that the learning curve of technique as to how to use them was so much different than HSS that if I had stuck with it I might have mastered it; later an employee started using the Self Grip that I had bought in a spectacular deal of a pickup load of tools that I bought, and I followed and now can use them with speed and economy.
Still there is the question as to what sort of machines they are appropriate to use on, and light weight low powered machines may not be appropriate for their use. On my 9" 1920s Monarch, I use HSS tools, on my 19" Regal Leblond I mostly use the Self Grip.
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Thanks but way above my pay grade haha
 
The carbide self-grip inserts blade and tool block came as a set from Iscar. The package had an original price of $95. This was new old stock that I got for less than $20. Keep an eye out, you never know what you will find. Everyone says, that to run carbide, you need to run fast ( I believed them for years :confused 3:). My 1944 vintage Monarch is a monster of a machine but has a top speed of only 700. Rarely do I run it over 425 and carbide inserts do well.

The best advice I can give you is don't spend any money on tooling until you have a need for it. I have a pile of stuff that sat for years before I needed it. Those funds could have been better spent.
If you want a QCTP you can get a set for a reasonable cost. No rule against putting an old style Armstrong HSS tool bit holder in your QCTP.
 
If I had any of the Armstrong holders I'd be using them but since I'd have to buy them the money would be better spent on a cheep aloris type I think. I've just read so many horror stories about parting I'm a little gun shy of the holder that comes with them. Then their different types of blades.

The only reason I ask about tool size 3/8 or 1/2 was the center line hight on this little lathe.

Man did I open a can of worms. Lol

Seriously thank you for your time
 
Now is the time for you to sign up for the pass around box. There must be something in the box that a new lathe owner will need :)
 
danny12 said:
If I had any of the Armstrong holders I'd be using them but since I'd have to buy them the money would be better spent on a cheep aloris type I think. I've just read so many horror stories about parting I'm a little gun shy of the holder that comes with them. Then their different types of blades.

The only reason I ask about tool size 3/8 or 1/2 was the center line hight on this little lathe.

Man did I open a can of worms. Lol

Seriously thank you for your time
Click to expand...
I was told by an old timer machinist that it seemed that the most difficult operations for guys learning the trade, so far as lathe work was concerned were threading and parting; with experience, threading got better as time went on, parting did not.
 
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