Question about welding polarity

Generally most work is DCEN - negative electrode. Most of the heat flows into the base metal causing a more narrow deep penetrating weld. DCEP (positive electrode) causes more of the heat the flow into the electrode relative to the base metal so you get a shallower wider pool. This should also help clean the weld metal, although this is more useful in TIG. This action is caused by the ion stream that you get - (electrons flow from - to +, but you also get a flow of ions from + to - to balance it out) when the ions strike the metal atoms they tend to 'knock' off things like oxides. The downside though is a hotter electrode - something like 2/3 of the heat is at the + side.

I think AC tends to be used for for various specialty stuff - what I usually use is 7014 (I think, maybe 18) with DCEN for general welding of steels. I'll use MIG (flux core) for light metal. What I recall is that 6011/13 is typically used more for out of position and field work, and 7014/18 is if you can weld it normally. I find 7014/18 to be easier to use and they lay more metal faster. The 70xx series are stronger (first 2 numbers are tensile strength in x1000 psi) but they also really should be stored dry or in an oven. Moisture is bad for electrodes period, but IIRC 7014/18 are more sensative than 6011/13.
 
AC welding is for limited transformer type machines (think lincoln toombstone machines) and back in the days of pre wire fed processes, was used with Big electrodes to overcome arc blow. 6011 was made to weld "better" than 6010 with AC. They make a 7018AC for use with those type machines because normal 7018 doesn't like to stay light with AC. Both types of rods have additions to the flux to help keep the arc light when switching polarities in the AC cycle.
 
Well...

I am not sure if this counts as first chips... however got out my new Jet bandsaw and cut up some rect, sq, and angle stock. Took some of the cut scraps, and ran some beads on them... just to get the feel of welding again... I do not know how long it has been since I did any stick welding... at least 4-5 years.

The first couple of beads looked pretty bad... uneven, pitted, lumpy. Tried the half-moon pattern, the 'bounce' pattern (down on one side, up and over to down on the other side), the circular pattern... decided the half moon was working the best for me. Then the 'hang' of it started coming back... beads started to look better.
After fiddling some more; remembered how I used to do it: Start out with one circle, then change to half moon, then the last sweep is a circle. Seemed to make a nicer looking start and end.

Was using a 7014 rod, 1/8 dia, gas powered welder was set at 125A, with the variable knob at 9 (on a scale of 1-10).
Tried AC, DC+, and DC-... each had its specific characteristics.
Of the three, the DC+ seemed to make the nicest looking bead...
The AC seemed to lay a bit flatter, yet was more uniform...
The DC- (electrode negative, work positive), was the most difficult to run a bead... the beads repeatedly came out with pits and voids...
Then for the real test: Ran three beads side by side; AC, DC+, DC-... then put the piece of metal in the bandsaw and cut the welds in half. Surprisingly, the AC had the best penetration... probably technique on my part I did not notice.

Anyhow, tests do not lie... so I am gonna weld the mill stand together with the welder on AC.

After running a few more beads, started in... The beads are not looking half bad... considering I have not done any stick welding in years.
Guess one really can just hop on a bicycle and ride it...
However...
One CANNOT just jump back into an airplane... and fly it... Story for a different thread... :) (No accident or property damage... just a rather amusing story for another time).

THX again to all for the postings... I really do appreciate the help!

I have some pics in my cell phone... If I can figure out how to get them onto this forum, will post them.

GA
 
This subject comes up a lot and even old welders don't always agree. I am a welder by trade welding structural steel in construction. This has already been stated here but here goes.

Straight Polarity is a negative electrode and a positive ground. It is expressed as DCEN (direct currant electrode negative) on some labels.

Reverse Polarity is a positive electrode and a negative ground. It is expressed as DCEP (direct current electrode positive).

In construction the most common electrode for stick welding is 7018 (1/8 inch and 5/32) which is use primarily in reverse polarity DCEP. 7018 is and all position welding rod meaning it can be used for flat, overhead and vertical welding on material from from 3/16 and up although thinner material can also be welded with it.

7018 is a low hydrogen welding wire and like all welding wire should be kept dry. Once a can of welding wire is opened we use a rod oven the keep the wire dry but a box heated with a light bulb can work. I have put rod in the kitchen oven as well.

6010 is another very common DCEP wire which is now use mostly for root passes on pipe but used to be the primary welding wire. I used to use it a lot on barge repairs to stop leaks it does a good job on dirty material but it throws a lot of sparks around.

Generally with a DC welder available few welders would use AC for stick welding except in some special circumstances.

My advice to anyone starting out stick welding would be work with 7018 as your all around wire. Also go to the Lincoln web site and get the Handbook of Arc Welding Procedures for your collection, you will also see a series of project books there that may spark your interest.

Bob
 
Well...

However...
One CANNOT just jump back into an airplane... and fly it... Story for a different thread... :) (No accident or property damage... just a rather amusing story for another time).

GA

You are not going to leave us hanging with that teaser are you?:veryscared:
 
You are not going to leave us hanging with that teaser are you?:veryscared:

Yes...
















Naaah....

Will start a thread in the off topic area... one of these days... and talk about flying.

Here is a teaser:

The two videos below are two gyro fly-in gatherings recently (Wrens was late October, a BEAUTIFUL day), and Barry's gathering was mid Nov, a bit chilly, due to a front that just came through)... attended both of them. The guy doing the video is REALLY good at this... he used A drone for some of the shots:

This was a Wrens GA, a small community about a half hour WSW of Augusta, GA:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFQ_iwaSAJg

This one is at Anson Cty field, about 45 minutes ESE of Charlotte NC:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX2inm_nBjw

This video is at our hanger in W GA, I think it was in Jan or Feb... CedarTown field (4A4 for folks that know airport jargon):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWRaL3yqv8o
The guy in the blue plaid flannel shirt is me... albeit about 15 Kilo's heavier than now... :)

BTW: The appearance of multiple rotor blades in flight is something digital video cameras do... gyro ALL (with just a few odd exceptions) have 2 rotor blades... it is part of the FAA designation that qualifies to fly with a SPL (sport pilots license).
 
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