Question about welding polarity

G

GA Gyro

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I have not done much stick welding in a while... seem to have forgotten a few things...

Have a Lincoln gas fired stick welder... which BTW; on the faceplate suggests it can be used for an elec source for both MIG and TIG welding... will discuss that in another thread.

The welder has the options for AC, DC+, and DC-

As I remember; DC+ means the stick is positive, and the work negative... so the arc is going from the work to the stick...
And DC- would be the stick is negative and the work is positive... so the arc is going from the stick to the work...
Or do I have that backwards...

Now the important question(s):
*Which one is better for welding steel parts... like sq tubing and angle...
*Which one tends to run cooler or hotter...
*Which one gives a better (stronger) joint...

THX... kinda need a simple refresher on stick welding.

BTW: Rods used will be 1/8 or 3/32", either 6013 or 7010... the latter tends to run a bit hotter, yet yields a stronger weld.

THX for any comments!

John
 
You have it right, electron flow is negative (an excess of electrons) to positive.

Normally for DC welding the electrode is negative.

Both 6013 and 7010 would work for most applications. If I remember correctly, the 7010 is a deeper penetrating rod, something like 6011, but is harder to get a really nice smooth weld. The 6013 will give nice smooth welds, normally fine for light structural work like work benches, light machine frames, etc. For higher stressed parts like trailer hitches, trailer frames, heavy equipment repairs, etc., I normally use 7018.
 
depends on which stick you're using:

E6010 = designed to be used with DCRP
(Electrode +) deep penetration, good metal transfer in vertical and overhead positions. Commonly used for welding pressure vessels, pipe and shipyards and repair work.
E6011 = designed to be used with DCRP (Electrode +) but can be used on AC. All positions, less penetration than 6010, Has more spatter during welding. A material choice for galvanized steel and for rusty and oily steel in maintenance and repair work.
E6013 = designed to be used with AC or DC either polarity. If has a shallow pointer-action and spatter is exceedingly low. It can be used in all positions, A good electrode for vertical down welding.
E7014 = designed for high speed welding, all positions and AC or DC either polarity. It is an iron powder electrode with smooth arc transfer. Low penetration, good for sheet metal and ornamental iron work. It has a higher deposition rate that E6012 and E6013. the coating provides good restrike characteristics and good melting.
E7018 = designed to be used with AC or DC reverse polarity (Electrode +) they have a low hydrogen base flux with iron powder added. It has a moderate penetration and a build up. These rods are very susceptible to moisture, which may lead to weld porosity. Commonly used for pipe, heavy sections of plate boiler work, and low temperature equipment.


If using 6013 I like electrode + unless welding very thin stuff

EDIT My mistake, I said this sentence backward. Electrode + makes it burn in more. Use elctrode - for thin stuff. There's a reason I have a typed laminated page of instruction of the front of my welder. CRS is my constant companion.

Sorry,

Karl
 
Last edited:
Karl, you and I seem to be diametrically opposed in the polarity. This make me wonder if I have been doing it wrong all these years. The old guy that taught me back in my heavy equipment days, about 45 years ago, used electrode negative for everything, and that the way I've always done it. Now I need to try it the other way and compare the result. I may have to learn to weld all over again.:veryscared:
 
I went two years to welding school 1969-1970 and what I were taught seen to be different today as to the direction of current flow , 6010 was direct currant ,reverse polarity, I doubt if the use of 6010 will ever change
 
Thank you all for the replies...

I have a LOT of 1/8" 6013 rods (probably over half my stock is 6013), so I probably will use that rod. Most of the welding will be either 3/16 or 1/4 wall sq, rect, or angle. Should not have an issue with overheating the work and blowing holes in it.

The other two rods I have are 7014 and 7018... both of which are 3/32 size.

Also have some off brand rods from Northern tool that do not have an Exxxx designation on them. Prolly play with them sometime and figure out how they weld... and assume they are similar to one I have.

One of the packages of 6013 is open at the end... I placed it in front of a heat supply vent... to dry them out (I have always stored welding rods inside my home... climate controlled... as opposed to in the shop. Drier inside the home).

Another question: As I understand it:
When one welds with positive polarity (that is, + on the rod and - on the work)... this means the arc jumps from the work to the stick. I have heard it said this runs a little cooler on the work... as opposed to the other.
Is this true?

Also; which one is called normal polarity, and which is called reverse polarity...

THX again for replies!

GA
 
Just a thought Ga, have you ever tried the brown rod called Jet rod or drag rod? ac/ dc dont matter like 70,000 lb wright your name with it flows perfectly but flat It dont like
verticals .....

Just a saying
 
GK1918 said:
Just a thought Ga, have you ever tried the brown rod called Jet rod or drag rod? ac/ dc dont matter like 70,000 lb wright your name with it flows perfectly but flat It dont like
verticals .....

Just a saying
Click to expand...

Honestly, have not.

I have some rods here... was hoping to not have to buy more.

I probably will go with the 6013 rod... and try DC with positive on the rod and negative on the work... Runs cooler... as I understand (?).
 
regardless of the formula of rod used:
"
Three types of arc generation are feasible:


  • Direct current, straight polarity (electrode negative, DC-EN) → deep penetration
  • Direct current, reverse polarity (electrode positive, DC-EP) → low penetration
  • Alternating current (AC) → medium penetration"


electrode neg = more heat into the weld because rod deposits slower so you can move slower

electrode pos = less heat into the weld, more into the electrode, and because the electrode is melting faster makes you move faster

AC = something of a balance

of course different rods behave differently, but using the same rods, the rules above apply
:))
 
juiceclone said:
regardless of the formula of rod used:
"
Three types of arc generation are feasible:


  • Direct current, straight polarity (electrode negative, DC-EN) → deep penetration
  • Direct current, reverse polarity (electrode positive, DC-EP) → low penetration
  • Alternating current (AC) → medium penetration"


electrode neg = more heat into the weld because rod deposits slower so you can move slower

electrode pos = less heat into the weld, more into the electrode, and because the electrode is melting faster makes you move faster

AC = something of a balance

of course different rods behave differently, but using the same rods, the rules above apply
:))
Click to expand...

Thank you SOOOO much!

This is what I think I am looking for.

I think I will take some scrap metal and run a couple of beads to establish amps... then
Run a bead each of the e ways noted above.

This should determine the better method for this project.

Hope to get some pics... if they come out well... will post them.

THX to all for posting...

Appreciate it!!!

GA
 
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