question about tramming a square column mill

I had a "Lathemaster" RF45 clone for about 9 years. I got the best results by first getting the head parallel to the column and then squaring the column to the table. Of note, even with the gibbs as tight as they would go, the head would shift when moving in the Z, so I always locked the Z after moving it.

For getting the head parallel to the column I put a very straight piece of 1/2" ground bar in a collet and mounted a DTI via mag base to the column. I messed with the head tilt until I could move the head up and down to the limit of my bar and not have any indicator movement. Note that since the head would shift when the gibb locks were tightened I had to ignore the indicator while I was moving it, the best I could do was to have the same reading at the top of the bar and the bottom with the locks tight. I did make tramming aids to provide fine adjustments to the head tilt, that was a huge improvement.

Once it was parallel to the column I used shims to get the X and Y lined up. I cut pieces about an inch wide and as long as the width of the column, plus about an inch to hold on to, and just messed about until I got it right. I finally manged about .0002 in both directions, at least until the wind blew. :)

The pic shows one of them, I used 5/8 x 3/4 CRS stock I had on hand.

Added second photo, this is the other side. You can just barely tell, but there is a relief at the end where the screw is, I think I took .250 off the thickness.

2014-09-17 18.08.23.jpg2014-09-17 18.08.34_cr.jpg

2014-09-17 18.08.23.jpg 2014-09-17 18.08.34_cr.jpg
 
mgalusha,

This is an excellent method, and was exactly what i was looking for. It lets you square everything up, and doesn't require any expensive tools to do so!
 
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