Question about order of ops for lathe work

Janderso

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
H-M Platinum Supporter
I am missing one of the two hand wheel studs? on my 15" Colchester.
The picture is close to mine, the 10-24 cap screw is in it's recessed hole.
Here is what I am thinking,
Chuck up 1/2" stock and drill to size for clearance. Counter bore the end then set up the compound to cut the taper, part it off.
I can hand file the parted end.
Does this order of operations make the most sense?
I know it's a simple project but I don't want to miss the obvious. I won't be able to grab it once the taper is cut.
Thanks,

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The cap screws hold the handle to the wheel?
If they do, then your order makes sense to this rookie.
 
Janderso said:
I am missing one of the two hand wheel studs? on my 15" Colchester.
The picture is close to mine, the 10-24 cap screw is in it's recessed hole.
Here is what I am thinking,
Chuck up 1/2" stock and drill to size for clearance. Counter bore the end then set up the compound to cut the taper, part it off.
I can hand file the parted end.
Does this order of operations make the most sense?
I know it's a simple project but I don't want to miss the obvious. I won't be able to grab it once the taper is cut.
Thanks,

View attachment 322012
Click to expand...

I would want to do the taper first, that is likely going to be quite a lot of stickout, and you'll want tailstock support. So my order of ops would be:

1/2" stock, center drill for the live center. Cut the taper. Clearance drill, counter bore drill. Then front-edge chamfer, start-parting off, back end chamfer, finish parting. 30 seconds of filing, then Beer :)
 
That is a better way
ErichKeane said:
I would want to do the taper first, that is likely going to be quite a lot of stickout, and you'll want tailstock support. So my order of ops would be:

1/2" stock, center drill for the live center. Cut the taper. Clearance drill, counter bore drill. Then front-edge chamfer, start-parting off, back end chamfer, finish parting. 30 seconds of filing, then Beer :)
Click to expand...
That does sound much better, I was concerned about the compromised stick out.
Outstanding! Thank you Erich.
David, we have lots to learn :), Ain't it fun??
 
Janderso said:
That is a better way

That does sound much better, I was concerned about the compromised stick out.
Outstanding! Thank you Erich.
David, we have lots to learn :), Ain't it fun??
Click to expand...
Indeed. I think in my head I leapt ahead and assumed tailstock support in the counterbore.
 
Oh, I'm a newbie as well, I just always choose the wrong way first (and likely 2nd, 3rd, and 4th!), so I've a ton of experience doing it wrong myself!

My current project (check out my hit/miss engine!) I messed up my crankshaft re-center-drilling. Upon further reflection, I realized I probably wasn't going to be able to finish it anyway.
 
Now if you want to get real fancy and mess around some. You could make a lot more work / machine time for yourself.
While the cross slide is still set for the angle of the taper, bore a soft jaw/colet to match the taper and then you can face the cutoff end. Yes the file will be faster and more efficient, but less fun.
 
Whoa, I like it. If I didn't have a zillion other things to do, well, it's not like this missing handle is important, it's been missing since I bought the lathe in December 2018.
Good idea, I will have to look up soft jaws and how that all works.
Can you buy them for 2 piece jaws?
I do have a Jacob's rubber flex collett chuck, is that an option?
 
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