Protecting & Maintaining Machined Surfaces

all I ever ure is wd 40 and then when it starts to rust fine steel wool.lol
 
ARKnack said:
What pebbleworm said is basically the same as seasoning cast iron cook ware. Should work. I may have to try it. The reason for using wax on wood chucking machines is wax leaves a very thin coating that won't transfer to the wood. Any transfer can screw up wood finishing. Also wax helps wood slide across the table top. For my wood tools I use wax. For metal working I just use WD40. I apply it liberally and often. It's cheap and works well. Oil doesn't hurt metal. If I have a machine that isn't used often, I will use better stuff. Like bio shied t9 or other waxy sprays. Check marine boating forums. They review rust preventatives often.
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Seasoning cast iron cook ware is a little different. You clean the piece. I put it in the oven and run a self clean cycle, works great. After the piece is clean you coat it with a thin film of oil and put it back in the oven at about 400 degrees F. The process can be repeated of few times to build up a thicker finish. What you are doing is turning the oil to a carbon coating. That's what makes the piece black and non stick. There are some good YouTubes on the subject if interested.
 
itsme_Bernie said:
Taking TLW's idea step to the side, a 60w light bulb in the base of each machine, or two depending on the machine, keep the machine just enough-warmer than the surrounding environment to prevent the slow condensation that rusts.
Adding a moving blanket is total protection, with just normal lube.
Add a tarp to this system, and you can leave a machine OUTSIDE all winter.
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I like this idea and will give it a try. Its certainly a lot cheaper to run a few light bulbs than to heat the entire shop. Plus you get the added benefit of keeping the machines clean under a blanket.
 
louosten said:
Gentlemen;

I am currently working on a drill press restoration, but would like some commentary on a more or less general subject, which is caring for machined surfaces. My most recent effort was in restoring the machined surface on the work table for this drill press. After using the usual rust removal techniques (steel wool, naval jelly, wash, repeat) I filled in the holes (arc of shame) with JB Weld, then restored the flat surface by filing and light use of emery cloth. The finishing touch was several applications of paste wax to prevent or retard rust formation:

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I know some on-line woodworking sites that extol the virtues of paste wax on cast iron. Maybe there are other, better solutions to preserving finished surfaces. One product I have heard of, but am not necessarily endorsing, is a Zep item called Zepreserve. It was sprayed all over a Clausing Mill I purchased last year, and it really seemed to keep the rust off the metal until it was removed. It had a waxy consistency which I liked, and seemed to be good for the intended purpose.

Maybe you have a good procedure you use that you'd like to share...let the comments begin!
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Cast iron I pickle in phosphoric acid, rinse carefully so as to not remove the phosphate, dry thoroughly, coat with linseed oil, and sun dry. Pretty much immune to rust even in my unheated Wisconsin shop. Works on steel but not quite as well. Ways and other running surfaces I just try to keep oiled.
 
I'm a fan of CorrosionX as it sticks to the metal and provides good long term protection. It was originally developed to protect the structure of aircraft and is still used for that all the time.
 
I live in sunny, humid south Florida. My shop is in my garage and while I have AC when I'm working in there, most of the time there's no AC. I have been using a product called Ospho for years. It is not a coating or wax. It is a conversion process. You just brush it on and let it sit for about a half hour and then wipe off with clean paper towels. The iron or steel turns dark gray. If the surface is slightly rusty, I use Scotch-brite wetted with Ospho to clean the surface rust off. If its really rusty, you can use it on the rust, but it still looks pretty rough. This stuff converts the ferrous surface from iron oxide to iron phosphate. The iron phosphate is not porous like rust, so it prevents rust from forming. It's not perfect, but it sure beats having rusty tools. I even use it on my hand tools. If rust forms, I just redo the treatment. Make sure you wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. I've had a quart bottle for years and think I bought it at an auto paint supply store, but Amazon has it for about $10/Qt.
 
RodSME said:
I live in sunny, humid south Florida. My shop is in my garage and while I have AC when I'm working in there, most of the time there's no AC. I have been using a product called Ospho for years. It is not a coating or wax. It is a conversion process. You just brush it on and let it sit for about a half hour and then wipe off with clean paper towels. The iron or steel turns dark gray. If the surface is slightly rusty, I use Scotch-brite wetted with Ospho to clean the surface rust off. If its really rusty, you can use it on the rust, but it still looks pretty rough. This stuff converts the ferrous surface from iron oxide to iron phosphate. The iron phosphate is not porous like rust, so it prevents rust from forming. It's not perfect, but it sure beats having rusty tools. I even use it on my hand tools. If rust forms, I just redo the treatment. Make sure you wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. I've had a quart bottle for years and think I bought it at an auto paint supply store, but Amazon has it for about $10/Qt.
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Phosphoric acid. I get it for about $10/gallon at the farm store.
 
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