Problem with the control for my power draw bar

[ScrapMetal]

I'm trying to remember back from when I was working (now on disability) but all of the mills in the Toolroom were retrofitted with the Kurt power drawbars. I don't ever remember any air leaking out unless you pushed the green button, and with that, it was just a short blast around the green button itself. I've had them apart a few times and you are correct, there is no gasket involved between the top and bottom plate. When you say that you had "to make" another spring, I'm wondering if the spring you put back in doesn't have enough tension to it. From what I remember (TRYING to remember) is that the spring that was in there was actually fairly stiff. By that I am comparing it to ....say a ballpoint pen spring. I'm betting that you aren't getting a good enough seal between the checkball and housing. Also on the dial, do you have it set to the max?

If I had one, I'd tear into it to help you out, but unfortunately I don't have one yet and just running on memory.:think1:

Yep, I've got it set to the max but you are probably right that the replacement I made isn't stiff enough. I'll play around with it a bit as I get more time. (Most likely what will happen is that I'll have an "emergency" type job where I need the mill and I'll have to do it. Seems to be the way things go around here.)

Thanks for the tip on the spring. I'll let you know what I figure out (or if I ever find the original ).

-Ron

 

[Tony Wells]

I've worked on countless Festo and SMC air components and this method is very common to mate up two parts, particularly in a split bulkhead manifold. Sometimes it's all about the torque and hole pattern used to assemble the halves. Being aluminum, they can distort perhaps more than you think.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Update on the air problems.


I ended up tearing into the head, doing some cleaning, and replacing more O-rings with the proper sizes. I've got some parts on order to take care of a couple minor issues but it is now "functional" at least. Replacing this unit/making new controller, etc. will now take a back seat to getting some other projects done. Hopefully it will give me enough "up time" to actually accomplish something.

Thanks for all the help guys, it was very helpful (and will be when it goes south again).

-Ron

 

[Kevin45]

ScrapMetal.....one other thing that comes to mind, do you have adequate oil in the vial? IIRC the vial is supposed to be something like 2/3's full or at least there is a mark on there showing the fill line.

 

[ScrapMetal]

ScrapMetal.....one other thing that comes to mind, do you have adequate oil in the vial? IIRC the vial is supposed to be something like 2/3's full or at least there is a mark on there showing the fill line.

Yes, that's one thing that I'm up on at least. :biggrin: I do have the appropriate amount in the vial. None of my machines lack in oil.

Thanks for the "heads up",

-Ron

 

[Daver]

Ok, maybe I'm way off base here... But this is basically a pneumatic switch, correct?

As an emergency 'fix' to keep you working, couldn't you plumb in a valve assembly or even just a couple of ball valves in the proper config? Maybe something like a lift valve or??

i know in a lot of automation hobbies when they use air, they use washing machine valves to control air (instead of water). Maybe you could have ele tric switches there controlling the pneumatics remotely.

again,I'm just thinking outside the box here...

 

[genec]

You mentioned earlier that you had oil coming out as well as a air. I know oil doesn't compress as well as air, so maybe the oil is your problem or causing it and maybe you need to stop it first.
:think1:

 

[ScrapMetal]

Ok, maybe I'm way off base here... But this is basically a pneumatic switch, correct?

As an emergency 'fix' to keep you working, couldn't you plumb in a valve assembly or even just a couple of ball valves in the proper config? Maybe something like a lift valve or??

i know in a lot of automation hobbies when they use air, they use washing machine valves to control air (instead of water). Maybe you could have ele tric switches there controlling the pneumatics remotely.

again,I'm just thinking outside the box here...

You're right, it is a very simple device and in a pinch I could cobble something together. I don't know if the washing machine valves could handle the 90 psi or so needed for the head to function but even if not there are others that could be used. I do like a "push button" setup (especially with a "safety" button) as I think it's less likely to be accidentally turned on in the middle of some operation. That, and I have the equipment already, darn it, and it should be working properly! :thumbzup:

You mentioned earlier that you had oil coming out as well as a air. I know oil doesn't compress as well as air, so maybe the oil is your problem or causing it and maybe you need to stop it first.
:think1:

Well, the way this system works the lubrication is fed to the head in the compressed air. Any time there is air moving it'll have oil in it, that's the way it's supposed to work. Unfortunately, when air is spewing out from somewhere it's also spewing a light mist of oil. It can get a bit messy. The up side is that I don't think there is anything on me east side of my shop that is in danger of rusting. :biggrin:

-Ron