[How do I?] Prevent the MT2 taper from slipping

[RandyM]

Robert, when using your drill press was the part clamp tightly to the table?

 

[jdedmon91]

Never had much luck with holesaws on thick metals or plastics. I used 3/4 sheets of derlin to make hubs for kart racing tire stands. I used a circle cutter to cut them out.

I don’t have any but a angular cutter is supposed to be the hot ticket in these situations. I can see the logic in your idea, save the plug as material for other projects


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[rwm]

Robert, when using your drill press was the part clamp tightly to the table?

No, not really. I need to figure out a good way to clamp larger objects to my oil table seen below:

I am considering buying a T-slot plate and drilling 4 holes to mount it. That seems like it would be versatile. A side bar clamp was shown by someone previously but that only prevents rotation and does not clamp downward. I did not have a vice large enough for this 5" piece.

Still in this case, I think the chatter was mostly flexing of the stamped metal hole saw itself. My DP was runnning at 260 rpm = 178 spfm.

Robert

 

[brino]

I am considering buying a T-slot plate and drilling 4 holes to mount it. That seems like it would be versatile.

I got lucky that the t-slots in my drill press table take the same nuts as my mill table.
For me it was accidental, but I am soooo glad that worked out.
-brino

 

[dlane]

When I use my hole saw on metal I shim the arbor to the saw so it doesn’t rattle when the arbor lock is ingaged, but I’ve never tried to cut a hole that deep.

 

[rwm]

What do you think about this:

Not cheap.

Robert

 

[francist]

It's beautiful.

Wonder if you could get away with making one up out of sections of flat bars instead of one solid casting. I see the benefits to the casting for sure, and it's bound to be more accurate, but maybe for the drill press it might be ok? Not talking about mill table accuracy most of the time.

Be a lot less dollars.

-frank