Power Options For Welding

It appears that Susan in SF has not responded to our collective advice. I hope we haven't scared her off.

If you are still there Susan please respond with some answers to our questions. A lot depends on why you want to do this and how big the job is and how strong it really needs to be.

Give us some info and we'll advise how to go about it.

Whatever you do play safe.
 
I wondered why the RV's and trailers frequently burn down. If I understand, according to the cheater manufacturer, you can access a 120 V leg to neutral at one receptacle, and then access the other 120V leg to neutral at another receptacle, and thus have 240V at an ampacity rating that sums the individual amp ratings? In theory, you can arrive at 240V using this type of connection, but the ampacity rating of the circuit would be the smallest of the two branch circuit breakers. I note the device isn't UL listed nor identified by the NFPA. Seems like a cheesy way to get 240V, and probably won't be approved by the building folks. I'd consider a water wheel before this approach.
 
Ok ill give you my take on your question. Learn to use your Eastwood , it should work on your circuit if it's a twenty amp breaker line. At worse if it gets to much draw it'll pop the breaker, I've been running my shop which is over fifty feet from the house load bank . It's a hundred amp service and my shop line is 60 amp with ugf 8 ga. Wire . I've never popped the the sixty and my shop breakers I have . I have forty amp breaker on my welding 220 line at the load center and a separate twin thirty for the plasma esab 875 , my heavy welder plugs into a dryer type outlet and it's a stick welder , my mig is a Clarke spool gun with 110 volt 20 amp breaker, if I do lots of welding long runs it may pop a breaker but it's very rare . I'm more likely to pop a breaker using my chop saw doing lots of cutting then welding. And I've been using this setup for forty years. Multiple pass works well I even do it stick welding with 3/16 7018 or 7014 rods. These have given me my best welds , I must say I welded up a hitch haul for my large power scooter on my blazer , we got rear ended and not one weld on any part broke , it got bent up but no brakes. The thickness of the box channel is 1/8" x 1 x 2" with a heavy 2 x 2 , hitch hook up. And that was mig welded no stick . If you need more holler.
 
That "cheater" device is most certainly illegal to use in this country and IMO quite dangerous as well. Combining power off different branch circuits to "create" 240v may work but is a serious safety risk especially if you don't throughly understand AC electricity. A better way to get temporary 240V is to use a "Temp box"(sometimes called a pull box or cheater box), use a heavy gage (3-10 for 30 A or 3-8 for 50 A) SJ cord with heavy insulated spring clips (like on jumper cables) going to disconnect breaker box with appropriate sized breakers, then as much of the same SJ cord as you need, terminating in a receptacle suitable for your machine. Clip the leads directly to the busbars of your service panel (make sure the cable is secured so it won't pull the clips off if accidentally pulled), plug in your machine, energize the breaker and weld away... when done, unclip the cables from the busbars and reinstall the cover of the service panel.
 
Some great advice in this thread. This being SF, also wondering if the wiring is knob & tube, and if the panel is modern(ish)?
 
Did you say you are a renter?
Unless you will have a lot of heavy welding to do regularly why not just rent a portable generator when you have a project that needs more than your 220v dryer circuit can safely provide?
Yeah, I was looking into that as well. I was just researching/ brainstorming possible options and asking you more knowledgeable manly men for your opinions :)
 
Its been said before, but you need to find a real 240V outlet, or have one installed. Most ranges (stoves) will utilize one. You could buy or make an extension to get to where you want. You could install another circuit providing a 240V outlet at the breaker panel, assuming there is room in the panel for another (double 240V) breaker.

Your welder also needs to be capable of running on 240v. Some can do both 120V (at reduced power) as well as 240V, but I think your Eastwood is 120V only. You typically have to pay a bit extra for the dual voltage option. You will probably need to upgrade here.

The other option would be to use a generator but that will set you back around $1500 for something with enough power. I have a Generac 8000 watt unit that is capable of running my 220A welder (on 240V), but it is loud and heavy, and ear protection is required. A (gasoline) generator typically needs regular maintenance, like switching out the gas each year, oil changes, test running, etc. Diesel is less maintenance but more costly and heavier. My generator is a backup for the house, which happens to also be capable of running the welder. I've only used it that way a couple of times.

Even with that setup I don't think I have welded anything over 1/4 thick, although the welder is certainly capable of it. My welder is air cooled TIG, I would really need to step up to a water cooled torch to do anything heavier for any length of time. I suppose it could stick weld thicker stuff, but I generally like the TIG mode.
 
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Its been said before, but you need to find a real 240V outlet, or have one installed. Most ranges (stoves) will utilize one. You could buy or make an extension to get to where you want. You could install another circuit providing a 240V outlet at the breaker panel, assuming there is room in the panel for another (double 240V) breaker.

Your welder also needs to be capable of running on 240v. Some can do both 120V (at reduced power) as well as 240V, but I think your Eastwood is 120V only. You typically have to pay a bit extra for the dual voltage option. You will probably need to upgrade here.

The other option would be to use a generator but that will set you back around $1500 for something with enough power. I have a Generac 8000 watt unit that is capable of running my 220A welder (on 240V), but it is loud and heavy, and ear protection is required. A (gasoline) generator typically needs regular maintenance, like switching out the gas each year, oil changes, test running, etc. Diesel is less maintenance but more costly and heavier. My generator is a backup for the house, which happens to also be capable of running the welder. I've only used it that way a couple of times.

Thanks for the rep
Even with that setup I don't think I have welded anything over 1/4 thick, although the welder is certainly capable of it. My welder is air cooled TIG, I would really need to step up to a water cooled torch to do anything heavier for any length of time. I suppose it could stick weld thicker stuff, but I generally like the TIG mode.
Yeah, I was looking into that as well. I was just researching/ brainstorming possible options and asking you more knowledgeable manly men for your opinions :)
Btw, I really like your renting idea, especially when space is limited
 
Thanks guys for all your input. According to the Eastwood site, my welder, "Welds up to 3/16" with solid core wire." With such a statement, does that mean it can weld 3/16" in one pass? To be honest, if so, this welder probably is all I need. I just am power hungry, like Tim Allen. Plus, I just wanted to feel secure that my welds would be strong enough to held heavy items safely.
 
Yeah, the stated weld thickness is for one pass, you can weld thicker material with multiple passes.
 
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