Power Options For Welding

Susan_in_SF

Wood and Metal Goddess
Registered
Joined
Jul 18, 2017
Messages
407
Hi guys,
So I am still in the process of selling woodworking equipment to make room for all my metalworking stuff in my 1 car garage. I picked up an Eastwood mg 135 welder (couldn't afford a Hobart or Miller). This welder supposedly can weld up to 3/16" mild steel, and it got good reviews. I should be content with that, however, like Tim Allen, I want more power (uhr, uhr, uhr)! I am a measly renter. What are my options for welding with more power so I can weld thicker steel? I would like to be a rebel to mig weld 1/2" mild steel and feel confident that the weld penetrated well enough. I could use a generator, I suppose. Is there anyway to power a welder with oart generator, part 20 amp wall outlet? The washer/dryer in my garage are on a regular 20 amp outlet. I also have a 15 amp outlet that is on my ceiling for my garage door opener. Can I use one of those RV cheater boxes to use a higher powered welder? Would it be dangerous to run a heavy duty extension cord from my kitchen's 20 amp gfci outlet by drilling a small hole to the garage, hook it up/combine with an adaptor to the 15 amp garage ceiling outlet, then plug into the 30 amp inlet to the cheater box with the washer/dryer outlet plugged into its 20 amp inlet so I can run a 50 amp welder? Here is a link to a site selling such a box:

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts...MIx6Wz4cOT2wIVD9VkCh18Nw1nEAQYASABEgJPL_D_BwE
Screenshot_2018-05-19-22-21-28.png
I know this idea sounds crazy, but it sounds like maybe it can work? This is why I am turning to you knowledgable guys - so I don't burn down my home.

Or could I weld 1/2" mild steel with what I have if I were to make a whole bunch multiple passes?

Thanks in advance to your kind, friendly constructive responses :)

Susan
 
Is it just that you want 220V? Is a dryer or oven outlet accessible? I have a long extension cord I used to use for that.

The cheater boxes work, but there is a trick to them. You need 110V circuits on opposite phases. The only way to know is to try it and measure the voltage across the two hot leads. You can make adapters pretty easily that do the same thing. The other thing is that you only have 15A if it works. That might be enough for a welder, but my Lincoln SP-175 says it wants just over 20A. Oven and dryer outlets are usually 30A or 50A.
 
Hi, What is the power input requirement for your welder. I'm assuming that as you're in California you have 110v power, but how many amps does it need for full power, probably 20A or maybe even 30A. For best results you should run it off a supply that is at least equal to the maximum machine requirements. If you run it from a lower amp outlet you may damage (burn out) your house hold wiring.

No you can not share the power between a generator and your household supply. apart from being illegal, its very dangerous. Those RV cheater boxes look a bit dangerous. I have never seen one i think they are illegal here in Downunder.

As you increase the output power on the welder it will draw more current from the supply. To weld thicker steel you basically need more current output, which means more current input. It's all about heat, the current provides the heat.

Yes you can build up with multiple passses, it is often done in industry. A good welding book or video will guide you to get best results. Another trick when the machine is not powerful enough for the task in hand is to preheat the metal. If the parts you are welding are not very large then its quite easy to preheat them with oxy or even in an oven.

Another thing to consider is how strong does the weld have to be. If you do not require a high strength industrial weld then you should be good to go. Preheat to about 500f and crank the machine up to full and go for it. You will have to consider duty cycle. that is the payoff when you buy a cheap machine you will probably have weld for a couple of minutes then stop to let your machine cool down. The manual should have duty cycle guide lines in it. pleas follow them if you don't you will wreck the machine, as in let the smoke out.

Have fun.
 
Is it just that you want 220V? Is a dryer or oven outlet accessible? I have a long extension cord I used to use for that.

The cheater boxes work, but there is a trick to them. You need 110V circuits on opposite phases. The only way to know is to try it and measure the voltage across the two hot leads. You can make adapters pretty easily that do the same thing. The other thing is that you only have 15A if it works. That might be enough for a welder, but my Lincoln SP-175 says it wants just over 20A. Oven and dryer outlets are usually 30A or 50A.

So that's how those cheater boxes work, and it also explains why we can't use them here in Downunder. Our singe phase lime voltage is 240v and we don't split it to make 110 opposite phase. We get our 240v 1Ph by splitting the 3 ph to neutral so all we get is 3x240v
 
Not familiar with the RV 3o to 50 amp converters but to me it sounds like something for nothing, be careful. Cloths dryers and electric ranges normally have 240 volts, is your cloths dryer gas heated? A lot of good comments have been made prior to this one. If you pay the electric bill you will see a picture of overloading your electric system in your power bill.
Have a good day
Ray
 
Did you say you are a renter?
Unless you will have a lot of heavy welding to do regularly why not just rent a portable generator when you have a project that needs more than your 220v dryer circuit can safely provide?
 
Folks have pretty-much covered all the info. Downunder Bob outlined all the basics and touched on an important idea... Multiple pass welding is the way to go for most things. It takes an enormous welding unit to stitch two pieces of 1/2 steel in 1 pass... big-time industrial equipment, like the kind found in ship making yards.

In my shop, I have a 60A, 220V line setup. All the welding units are 220V -and even still, almost all welds are done in multiple passes. I dare say that 100% of any structural welding I perform is done in multiple passes.

As others have stated, if you need extension cords, a typical garden-supply type cord is not good. You'll need very heavy duty rated cord with at least 12 ga wiring. Keep the length as short as possible. Make sure the wall receptacle is in good condition and that is has a good ground connection. If possible, plug into a receptacle that's a close as possible to the house electric service panel.

If your welding area is very crowded, be really careful. Welding in tight cramped spaces where you've got items made of wood or lots of cardboard storage boxes around, is an invitation to burn your place down. If anything is combustible at all, a welding unit can make it burn. It's probably the hottest flame a typical human being will ever encounter in their lifetime.

Ray
 
The Eastwood 135 welder is designed for 120V input and maximum input amps of 20A so I do not think you can hook up 220V or use more input amps.

Eastwood 135 welder

As others mentioned, it is common to use multiple passes to weld thicker metal. If you use the flux core wire, you need to clean off the slag between passes. If you have a welding gas bottle you should not get much slag, easier to clean for the next pass.

A new and fun learning curve with this welder. If you use the flux core wire, it creates a lot of fumes so you need to have a well ventilated location for welding.
 
Not to p on your parade but a Eastwood 135 has only 20% duty at 90 amps. Your welder maxs out at 3/16. You want to be able to weld 1/2. So you trying to weld 3times your max rating. You will smok that welder in no time if you don’t think about duty cycle. Preheating 1/4” then multiple welds might get you there. To weld 1/2 material you’ll need 200-300 amps
If you run a extension cord better be 12 gauge or better. If your serious about welding I would run a 20amp circuit from main panel to dedicated plug for use with welder.
And lastly make sure your renters insurance is paid up. :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top