POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[7milesup]

OUCH!

Ah, not too bad. Just some torn cartilage. It still is a PITA with crutches and such. They have my knee wrapped up so much I can't hardly move it. They did that to catch the drainage from the incision sites because they pump a bunch of fluid through the knee when they are doing this.

Anyhow... Here is a hand-drawn picture that will hopefully make my explanation clearer.

 

[682bear]

The bandsaw wheels are supposed to have a slight angle on them... the blade rides to the top of the angle. This angle keeps the blade running true, but also allows for clearance for tooth rake... without it, the wheel removes the rake on the inside of the blade and the blade begins cutting on an angle to the outside...

-Bear

 

[7milesup]

The bandsaw wheels are supposed to have a slight angle on them... the blade rides to the top of the angle. This angle keeps the blade running true, but also allows for clearance for tooth rake... without it, the wheel removes the rake on the inside of the blade and the blade begins cutting on an angle to the outside...

-Bear

Ahhh. Well, I am not sure what to do now. It seems to be working after a couple of test cuts. Regarding the tooth clearance... My wheel had a chamfer on it, so the teeth would not contact it. I replicated that chamfer with a 60-degree cutter when I was done cleaning up the face. I didn't take a picture of that either.

 

[extropic]

@7milesup
First, I want to say that I don't remember ever seeing a bandsaw wheel that wasn't crowned and didn't have a tire. However, I don't consider myself an expert. Just another contributor.
Assuming the blade teeth are positioned nearest the groove/flange, I think the groove, on this wheel, is there to clear the blade kerf. I don't anticipate any problem with that. It should work just fine if you make sure the groove is deep/wide enough for the blades you use.
If the OEM parts manual doesn't show a tire, I guess the saw doesn't use a tire. If it works well, acquiesce to the OEM designers.
This class of saw has very short distance between the blade guides and the wheel tangents, so not having a crown or an elastomeric tire may work just fine.

The taper (cone) you represented, in the sketch, looks like a problem to me. It sounds like the wheel OD is now essentially cylindrical. If it works well, IMO, declare a victory and move on. If the blade teeth create tracks in the groove (or adjacent), the The groove needs to be deeper/wider and the blade guides need to be properly adjusted.

 

[eraserhd]

Yeah so my 3D printer mostly printed 3D printer parts, so my mini lathe…

 

[tim81]

Assembling hf tire change tool

 

[tim81]

Finished, now to the greenhouse project. Been sitting since spring

 

[dkemppai]

Anyhow... Here is a hand-drawn picture that will hopefully make my explanation clearer.

So a flat belt or bandsaw blade will always climb to the high part of the wheel. Wood bandsaws don't have a flange, so the wheel is crowned high in the middle. If both wheels are parallel and run in the same plane the blade would tend to center up. These metal saws always seem to have a flanged on the wheel to stop the blade from going too far back. (Probably preventing damage to the teeth as others have said). My guess is the wheel would be intentionally tapered, so instead of leaving a high crown they just use the flange to perfectly position the blade and the taper forces the blade to 'climb the taper' towards the flange.

Now you have me thinking I should measure mine to check, if I ever pull it apart...

 

[dkemppai]

So.. whatcha gonna do with it? Just look at it?

Wondering the same thing. You all had me really thinking about one of these. But then, I thought about what I would use it for. I decided to wait until you guys found all the great uses for them!

 

[Provincial]

The shoulder is used on metal cutting bandsaw wheels because the heavy cutting pressure trys to push the blade off the wheel away from the teeth. While a taper may be used to keep the teeth from touching the wheel and taking away the "set", the professional grade saws that I have been around use wheels narrow enough that the teeth stay out past the wheel, and only the flat part of the saw blade contacts the surface.