POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[rabler]

So on the order of 479001600 ways?

11x9x7x5x3 is what I worked out. A little google searching says 12!/(6!*2^6) I'm glad I didn't have to randomly try all combinations even if it felt like I did.

 

[WobblyHand]

11x9x7x5x3 is what I worked out. A little google searching says 12!/(6!*2^6) I'm glad I didn't have to randomly try all combinations even if it felt like I did.

Oh, so a mere 10395 tries

 

[pontiac428]

Geez, I thought it was just as simple as 12! factorial, but maybe NIST covers it in one of their guides.

Looks like you’re off to a great start. I’ve only usex chamber reamers from PTG. Please show some detail photos of the bolt when you get it, including a pic right out of the box if you don’t mind.

I have this one for a twenty cal. Sako extractor. I like the Sako for target rifles, it affects the bolt face minimally compared to- well, pretty much every other kind of extractor save for the original equipment Remmy. I would recommend an AR type for a field gun. The AR types are cheaper too. This one is .7050 diameter, which is .005 over stock. Even in the current economy, the bolt bodies are still really affordable- if you avoid the flashy extras. The alternative is sleeving the bolt. That works, I've done it with good results. It's very time consuming to turn them down, make sleeves, silver solder them together, turn and grind finish. For the cost at PTG, you're getting cylinder grinding service, the extractor cut, and the (praise allah) small firing pin hole. So it's a fair price for a time saver.

 

[Eyerelief]

Geez, I thought it was just as simple as 12! factorial, but maybe NIST covers it in one of their guides.



I have this one for a twenty cal. Sako extractor. I like the Sako for target rifles, it affects the bolt face minimally compared to- well, pretty much every other kind of extractor save for the original equipment Remmy. I would recommend an AR type for a field gun. The AR types are cheaper too. This one is .7050 diameter, which is .005 over stock. Even in the current economy, the bolt bodies are still really affordable- if you avoid the flashy extras. The alternative is sleeving the bolt. That works, I've done it with good results. It's very time consuming to turn them down, make sleeves, silver solder them together, turn and grind finish. For the cost at PTG, you're getting cylinder grinding service, the extractor cut, and the (praise allah) small firing pin hole. So it's a fair price for a time saver.

View attachment 460675View attachment 460676

Very nice. Makes me want to try one. Did I just say that? What’s your planned .20? I have a bolt .204 that shoots 32 grain Berger moly meanies over 4K. It’s more fun than banana pudding

 

[pontiac428]

Very nice. Makes me want to try one. Did I just say that? What’s your planned .20? I have a bolt .204 that shoots 32 grain Berger moly meanies over 4K. It’s more fun than banana pudding

I am rebarreling a 204 Rug for 20 VT to see what tiny groups from tiny cartridges is all about.

 

[Eyerelief]

I am rebarreling a 204 Rug for 20 VT to see what tiny groups from tiny cartridges is all about.

I like the VT. I like the diminutive. My only complaint is trying to resolve them tiny holes at range. Don’t even get me started on the .17 rem. My eyes water just thinkin about it

 

[Nutfarmer]

Love shooting ground squirrels with the 17 Remington. Don’t even have to worry about any recohets. Have to reload for that round. A box of twenty rounds last I looked was fifty.

 

[pontiac428]

Did more work for the 6mmBR yesterday.

First, I cut a tenon for a match sight base, because I'm a nerd and optics are for gamerbois. Yes, this is the setup, and I am sure it makes some people cringe. The Jacobs dials to .001, but typically not much tighter than that. The steady is a support 24" away, so the steady absorbs the remaining arcseconds and my Suhl tenths mic agrees. I did put Timkens in the 50-lb steady rest for jobs like this. 11 degree crown to finish.



Sanded and polished. The live center is making contact at the bolt recess and chamber mouth at the same time, is gently snugged, and barely burnishes the edges that usually need to be broken with a stone anyway, so my way is to let it ride. I do not do that with the crown!



That's it for now. I can't bed the stock until the bolt comes in and I can set the headspace. I'll take pics of the stock later, it's a nice claro xx walnut job that I bought raw. Since it's wood, I didn't post last weekend's pics of sanding, shaping, and inletting. Still have to mill a channel in the stock for the hand stop rail and make up pillars for the wonky A5 bottom metal. I have to bed the bottom metal as well, which should be interesting to say the least!

 

[rabler]

Geez, I thought it was just as simple as 12! factorial, but maybe NIST covers it in one of their guides.

Not NIST, it's in one of the NFA Electrical Code tables.

 

[wachuko]

I was asked politely to move the plasma table from the living room…

Also took the time to place the fixture table on the lift table to make it easier to install the legs. And I can leave it there until the casters arrive on Tuesday…



Legs installed





I had bought these used ramps (paid 75.00 for them) to use on the shop, while I build a driveway, to load all my stuff… figured I would test them…


They should be fine for loading all the stuff inside once the shop is done…