POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[BGHansen]

Bruce, what about something like this? Some Wire strippers have the ability to cut screws, though you might want to figure out a mechanical aid to help "squeeze" them if your going to cut a lot.

Worth a try! Plus, I'll "have" to buy another tool!

Thanks for the tip!

Bruce

 

[Shotgun]

Stainless steel screws (they are 8-32 in these toys) make a nice substitution for the often rusty originals. Problem is, McMaster Carr, Graingers, Bolt Depot, Mutual Screw, etc. sell 1 1/4" and 1 1/2", but don't sell 1 3/8" screws. Obviously can't stretch a 1 1/4" up to 1 3/8", so my only option was to cut 1 1/2" screws done to 1 3/8". Here's what I came up with.

. . .


Yes, very tedious, but it's done! It took me just short of an hour to do 100 screws. I measured the stacked bushing and die after the fact at 1.370", I knocked 0.005" off the die after grinding 100 screws. I would appreciate it if anyone has a source for 1 3/8" length stainless 8-32 screws! Or, a better way to knock 1/8" off!

Thanks for looking, Bruce

Fun Fact: Every faston electical crimper you ever bought has a series of holes near the pivot point. Look close, and you'll see one side is threaded. It's there to shorten screws. Put it in to the desired length. Squeeze if off. Straighten the threads as you back it out.

It was only a few months ago that I learned this myself.

(I should have finished the thread before posting.)

 

[BGHansen]

Bolt Depot; not cheap as it’s an odd length, but maybe worth it:

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=9646

Phillips Pan Head is their only option.

Thanks! I should have mentioned, they need to be round headed slot-drive screws.

Bruce

 

[Boswell]

Some Wire strippers have the ability to cut screws,

Cutting a SS #8 screw with once of these might be OK for one or two, but I think you give up before you do 100 (or even 10). Bruce, I like your technique of using a Die and bushing to get the length and then grinding. 100 an hour does not seem to bad.

 

[extropic]

Cutting a SS #8 screw with once of these might be OK for one or two, but I think you give up before you do 100 (or even 10). Bruce, I like your technique of using a Die and bushing to get the length and then grinding. 100 an hour does not seem to bad.

I second that, unless one is looking for a hand strength exercise.

If you inadvertently pinch yourself one time, it will be "aw $h1t" and back to the previous method.

Those electrical pliers are great for 'in the field' use for a few screws that are getting immediately installed.

 

[ChazzC]

I second that, unless one is looking for a hand strength exercise.

If you inadvertently pinch yourself one time, it will be "aw $h1t" and back to the previous method.

Those electrical pliers are great for 'in the field' use for a few screws that are getting immediately installed.

They also can leave a sharp end, not something you want on an Erector Set project, so they’ll be time grinding/sanding anyway.

 

[mksj]

This is part of a complete control system I am building for a CVA lathe, which is a variant of the Monarch 10EE. It has an unusual micrometer stop which required modifications and I built a proximity stop holder for it. The proximity stop holder was fabricated from 6061, it uses a floating bearing hub and a guide rod both made out of O1 steel. I added a chip shield made out of polycarbonate. The proximity sensor thread is a M30 x 1.5 which I bored and threaded on the lathe since I did not have a tap in that size. As with many projects it takes just as much time trying to figure out how you are going to do it as it does time machining.

 

[FOMOGO]

Been working on a mobile work bench. Have three of these basic angle iron benches that were in the basement of the house next door when I bought it some years ago. They were just kind of thrown together, with expanded metal tops, sides, and shelf underneath. First step was removing the expanded metal, and two layers of paint, and mill scale. Then some 2"angle re-enforcement, and box the bottom sections of the legs for the axles, and iron wheels I had done on the lathe. The top is an 8'x 2' section of 1/4" plate on a 1"x3" rectangular tube base that I picked up with a bunch of steel I bought a few years back, at a fire sale price. Added a piece of 3" channel as a catch tray on one side, and will be adding another piece on the other side to extend the surface area. Also will be adding a removable backsplash on three sides, and some salvaged metal desk drawers. The front casters were another salvaged free item. Disassembled, and cleaned them up, removed the wheels, and swivel bearing caps, made spacers to take out the side to side slop, and put the swivel section in the press, and and got all the slop out of the swivel bearing. Probably 80% of the work on this thing has been in removing paint and mill scale. The top has the thickest and hardest mill scale I've run across. I tried muratic acid to no effect. The best method to date has been 4 1/2", 40grit flap discs. I put a 3" belt sander on the top after removing the scale and it will cut the metal just fine, but try it on a piece with mill scale, and it won't touch it. Had the top not had some deep gouges in it, I probably would have left it. Will post an update when it's finished, and if anyone has a good method for fast mill scale removal I would love to hear it. Cheers, Mike

 

[Just for fun]

That's a good looking bench Mike, Thanks for sharing.

 

[Just for fun]

I made a screw from a photo today. Last weekend I was at my niece's farm and she is working on a couple of chairs and a table. Missing one screw, I said I think I can make that (probably buy it at Home Depot for 2 bucks) LOL.

Anyway it was fun to make it from a photo. Looks like it should work.

The original


The one I made.