POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

A while back, I bought these two old card files...

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Today I discovered that they are a PERFECT fit on top of a Kennedy tool box...

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It's like they were designed to fit between the top flange of a Kennedy box...

So I began sorting all of my horizontal mill cutters and slitting saws and filling the drawers on the card files...

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...putting 4x6 index cards between them with the sizes listed.

-Bear
Excellent adaptation of the drawers: a corollary to never having enough tools is unfortunately also never having enough storage.
 
Happy meal toys are an upgrade over ZAMAK!:laughing:
Nah. I'm of the opinion that the zamak on atlas lathes get a bad rap. Mostly from the other forms of zamak, which are not as durable as the zamak 3 that Atlas spec'd and can be subject to "zinc pest".

All my zamak is nearly factory fresh and the lathe was built in 1952. That's a pretty good track record. It also hasn't lived an easy life either. Of course, if you whack it the wrong way or abuse it, it will ether break or wear out quicker than expected, but that falls under "abuse" in my opinion. No way you're going to weld or braze zamak either. Once it's broke, it's broke for good.

ABS might last 20 -30 years because it's plastic, but it's not going to look like a gear at that point.
 
I haven't seen Atlas ZAMAK corrode, but the contact surfaces on the 1947 change gears are sending a clear message that they weren't intending to stick around this long. A well designed plastic gear could change that. You're doing fine for a 1/2 hp lathe. The leadscrew is just a PTO accessory, the gear won't see severe stress.

The old GMC inline six had a gear driven cam with a nylon gear that was not known to fail. I can attest to 300,000 miles on one, most of of that was on Holleys, Hookers, and Hursts... Aaand Cliffords and Offenhausers, if you sniff what I'm wafting. I miss that truck.
 
It was a woodworking day, making the decorative parts of a porch railing extension. Nothing fancy. I have about 1000 board feet of rough sawn cherry, so most projects start with a lot of jointer and planer work. I don’t have a separate wood shop, everything is in a 3 car garage outbuilding space, including one car. I take the car out, and in just a few minutes I can set up a good material flow, jointer to planer to miter saw to table saw to router table.

Today’s output:

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This is to match this design of porch rail, made in 1904 all cut by hand.

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Started printing out a couple gears for my atlas 10f:

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Going to give them a try and see if it calms down some of the ring, clash and rattle noises.

Thats the combo gear off the spindle gear that drives the change gears and the transfer gear in the reversing gearbox. Both of those gears are quite noisy, as when I disconnect them the lathe quiets right down.

I’m kind of hoping the abs gears will absorb some of the clashing/ringing in the gear train and quiet the whole machine down.

These are a first kick at the cat, mostly a “proof of concept”. If it works, I’ll redesign them to incorporate a bronze bushing to run on the pins/bolts/axles they run on.
Tell us how it works out. what Did u print with Petg or abs.
 
Tell us how it works out. what Did u print with Petg or abs.
Ummm:

I’m kind of hoping the abs gears will absorb some of the clashing/ringing in the gear train and quiet the whole machine down.
I prefer abs for most things I print. Once you figure out how to compensate for the tendency for abs to warp and/or lift, its a joy to print with. I find it by far the easiest material to post process. Sands well and you can acetone vapor smooth it for an even better surface finish.

Although, I have recently printed a few things with petg and have to say I’m impressed. Not quite as strong as abs, but much easier to print as it doesn’t seem to shrink the same way abs does. Post processing is also nice. Not quite as easy as abs, but miles above pla. I a oid pla now whenever I can. Pla has its applications, but I find it mostly a pita to get it from spool to finished print.

haven’t tried nylon yet, but after reading up on it, it seems like its got a lot of pita things about 3d printing it. Main issue seems to be water absorption, which can be a major issue once its melted in the print nozzle and you try to extrude it.

Nope, I’m an abs guy. Its my go to material.
If you look a couple posts up you’ll see a short video of it running.

:)
 
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Ummm:


I prefer abs for most things I print. Once you figure out how to compensate for the tendency for abs to warp and/or lift, its a joy to print with. I find it by far the easiest material to post process. Sands well and you can acetone vapor smooth it for an even better surface finish.

look a couple posts up and you’ll see a short video of it running.

:)
Ha. Ok. Just saw the post with your printer. Didn’t look further, that’s on me.
 
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