Possible to Thread Thin .22 Barrel?

[Chips O'Toole]

Got myself a .22 silencer, which is fun, but I only have one .22-caliber firearm with a threaded muzzle.

I am thinking about threading a couple of rifles, but they have pretty skinny barrels. How thick does a muzzle have to be in order to be a good candidate for threading?

The threads on a .22 silencer are 1/2"x28.

 

[Jim F]

Can you shorten the barrel to get enough meat, without going under length ?

My Savage .308 would need shortened to get a good thread.

 

[Chips O'Toole]

I was just thinking about that.

This rifle has a 22" barrel, which seems extreme to me. I have read that a .22's velocity will top out at around 16". With a can, the rifle would be at around 28", which would be cumbersome. I see web people saying the reason for a long barrel is to maximize the sight radius, but who shoots tiny squirrels with iron sights?

I found a Silencer Central page that says 0.560" is the minimum, and this gun is bigger than that, so I suppose it's big enough without cutting the barrel down.

No idea how to hold a tapered barrel. I'm reading up.

 

[Jim F]

I was just thinking about that.

This rifle has a 22" barrel, which seems extreme to me. I have read that a .22's velocity will top out at around 16". With a can, the rifle would be at around 28", which would be cumbersome. I see web people saying the reason for a long barrel is to maximize the sight radius, but who shoots tiny squirrels with iron sights?

I found a Silencer Central page that says 0.560" is the minimum, and this gun is bigger than that, so I suppose it's big enough without cutting the barrel down.

No idea how to hold a tapered barrel. I'm reading up.

Spider.
(I have a Brownells that I will sell.)
and a 4 jaw chuck

 

[Chips O'Toole]

Thanks for the help.

The distance from the left side of my lathe to the end of the chuck jaws would be around 30", so I don't think a spider would work for me. I think I would have to turn between centers.

I have read that I need something called a range rod in order to assure concentricity with the bore, not the barrel's surface.

 

[WobblyHand]

Thanks for the help.

The distance from the left side of my lathe to the end of the chuck jaws would be around 30", so I don't think a spider would work for me. I think I would have to turn between centers.

I have read that I need something called a range rod in order to assure concentricity with the bore, not the barrel's surface.

Yes, your barrel OD is not necessarily concentric with the bore. One obviously needs to have the threads concentric to the bore to prevent baffle strike of your device. Not sure of the most accurate method, indicating the bore or using a tight fitting range rod, but getting the threads concentric with the bore is important.

 

[pdentrem]

Can make a threaded bushing to fit the barrel shank that fits the spindle bore. Depending on the spindle, a threaded stop on the left side to limit where it stops at. Now you will need to make a body filler bushing to allow the jaws to close on the barrel.

 

[Flyinfool]

Use a center in the bore and then cut the threads between centers, or center and 4 jaw, in the location that you want the silencer to sit. Once done cut off the end of the barrel (you want to shorten it anyhow) to final length to remove any damage from the center, and crown it.

Another option is to use a steady rest to hold the end of the barrel. This might leave marks in the barrel finish.

 

[Jim F]

DO NOT use the barrel to center the bore.........
Remingtons are well known for being WAY off.......

 

[Chips O'Toole]

This is a Savage A22, not a Remington, but I don't expect a Savage to be any more concentric.

Can make a threaded bushing to fit the barrel shank that fits the spindle bore. Depending on the spindle, a threaded stop on the left side to limit where it stops at. Now you will need to make a body filler bushing to allow the jaws to close on the barrel.

Trying to picture that. This is an M7 spindle with a 2.25" bore.

Regarding holding a barrel in a chuck, I have seen people using fat copper wire inside chuck jaws.

Maybe I could make some kind of threaded bushing for the left side of the lathe, but it would have to add about 16" to the length of the barrel. I need about 30" to go from the left side of the lathe to the tops of the chuck jaws, and then I need maybe an inch of barrel to stick out so I can work on it. The final length of the barrel would be slightly over 16", so I would need to end up with an assembly (bushing and barrel) at least 31" long to jam in the spindle, I think.

I would need some way to indicate the bore, too.