PM932 CNC Build

jbolt - nice build! My 932 is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Mind If I pick your brain while I go through my conversion? Once the mill gets here the first step will be a thorough inspection, cleaning and break in followed by installation of a one-shot lube system. After that it's the installation of the ball screws and motors. What length ball screws did you use for the X, Y and Z? I'm planning on using 1605's on the X and Y and a 2005 on the Z.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

Tom S
 
jbolt - nice build! My 932 is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Mind If I pick your brain while I go through my conversion? Once the mill gets here the first step will be a thorough inspection, cleaning and break in followed by installation of a one-shot lube system. After that it's the installation of the ball screws and motors. What length ball screws did you use for the X, Y and Z? I'm planning on using 1605's on the X and Y and a 2005 on the Z.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.

Tom S

Hey Tom,

Congrats on the new mill.

No problem answering questions. Later tonight when I get home I can send you the ball screw sizes. I used 2005 all around. I used pulleys on the X,Y due to space so the driven ends of the shafts may be different length if you direct drive.

Jay
 
Have seen this thread prior but didn't read it as I dunno squat about CNC machining or much even about manual but I just read the entire thing. That's a most impressive job Jay. Very, very impressive. Congratulations on such a fine job and finished product.
 
Hey Tom,

Congrats on the new mill.

No problem answering questions. Later tonight when I get home I can send you the ball screw sizes. I used 2005 all around. I used pulleys on the X,Y due to space so the driven ends of the shafts may be different length if you direct drive.

Jay

Jay,

Thanks for your help. I'm going to direct drive my ball screws so I'll take into consideration that yours are belt driven. I wouldn't expect there to be much difference though as a pulley is about the same width as a coupling half. Or am I off base with that statement?

Did you have to do any machining on the bottom of the saddle or table to get the 2005's to fit? I've heard and read that fitting a 2005 ball screw and nut to ZX45's requires metal removal.

BTW - I started a thread about a week ago on the PM forum. It's titled "Taking the CNC Plunge". Has a little background on my approach.

Thanks again. Can't wait to get started.

Tom S


Edit - just saw that you are from Mountain View. My wife and I are central California coast natives (Watsonville). My mom and stepdad still live there. My grandparents lived in Mountain View for years so I somewhat know the area.
 
Have seen this thread prior but didn't read it as I dunno squat about CNC machining or much even about manual but I just read the entire thing. That's a most impressive job Jay. Very, very impressive. Congratulations on such a fine job and finished product.

Thanks drs23, It has been a fun project and learning experience.

Jay
 
Jay,

Thanks for your help. I'm going to direct drive my ball screws so I'll take into consideration that yours are belt driven. I wouldn't expect there to be much difference though as a pulley is about the same width as a coupling half. Or am I off base with that statement?

Did you have to do any machining on the bottom of the saddle or table to get the 2005's to fit? I've heard and read that fitting a 2005 ball screw and nut to ZX45's requires metal removal.

No need to make the screws any longer than necessary so just double check the required engagement on the coupler with a little extra for adjustment.

On the saddle I only machined the bottom on either side of the boss that the lead screw nut attaches to for the new ball nut mount to tighten flat against. Also squares up the boss. Everything I did would not prevent the original lead screws to be re-installed. The 2005 screw and nut does fit without major modifications to the saddle but it takes careful planning.

IMG_0735.JPG

Jay

IMG_0735.JPG
 
Here is the ball nut mount being relieved to clear the table. I had to add another angle to what you see to clear the casting at each end of the table where the reservoirs are.

IMG_0748.JPG

IMG_0748.JPG
 
No need to make the screws any longer than necessary so just double check the required engagement on the coupler with a little extra for adjustment.

On the saddle I only machined the bottom on either side of the boss that the lead screw nut attaches to for the new ball nut mount to tighten flat against. Also squares up the boss. Everything I did would not prevent the original lead screws to be re-installed. The 2005 screw and nut does fit without major modifications to the saddle but it takes careful planning.

View attachment 81886

Jay

Jay - thanks for the clarification. Sorry for not responding sooner but I'm neck deep into a kitchen remodel. Hopefully will be done in a couple of weeks so I can focus on the CNC build. Unfortunately my mill didn't get delivered yesterday. Roadrunner Transportation says it will get here Monday. We'll see!

Tom S
 
More progress. Getting close to completion. Finished all the electrical wiring and managed not to let any of the magic blue smoke escape.

Got the home/limit switches installed. I originally planed on using optical switches in sealed enclosures but decided to install inductive proximity switches simply because the install was simpler. These may be temporary or permanent depending on performance. The z and x switch are out of the way or protected from coolant and chips but I still need to make a cover and wiper for the y switch.

Coolant system (pond pump in a bucket) is hooked up and running via a switch on the control panel. For now the coolant pump will be switched manually but I have provisions to run it from Mach3 if I decide to do so in the future.

The lights on the machine are Malibu 20w halogen garden lights run by a 12vac power supply in the control box. Lights are on magnetic bases so they can be moved around for better positioning depending on the work piece. I have used the same lights on my Smithy Granite for the last 10 years with great success.

Started on the coolant enclosure today. The framework is installed, just need to finish hanging the rest of the shower curtain liners.

Next step is o make the protective covers for the x and y motors and belts.

All three axis have been powered up and jogged back and forth. It's really satisfying to finally see things moving.

Jay

View attachment 75541View attachment 75540View attachment 75531View attachment 75532View attachment 75533View attachment 75534View attachment 75535View attachment 75536View attachment 75530View attachment 75538View attachment 75537View attachment 75539View attachment 75542View attachment 75529View attachment 75528

Hi Jay. Been working on my PM-932 CNC conversion for a few months and am getting close on finishing the mechanical portion of the project. I have a couple of questions about your proximity switches. How did they work out? Are they reliable and repetitive? I assume they are normally closed switches. Is that correct?

Once I get the mechanical part done I'll post pictures.

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving.


Tom S
 
Hi Tom,

Glad to hear your project is coming along. The proximity switches are okay. At first they were very repeatable but over time have become less so. I have not spent the time to figure out why yet so the jury's still out.

Yes they are normally closed.

I'm currently working with a couple of friends building a CNC router for cutting aluminum sheet metal. We will be using hall effect sensors and I want to see how they perform before digging into the proximity switches.

Please post some pictures of your progress.

Jay
 
Back
Top