PM1236T Installation in Basement

Clearly they do not order enough of these things...

I ordered the 3ph motor with mine and sized the VFD according to MJ's posts and recommendations. I asked PM about the higher end set tru 3 jaw upgrade chucks that others here have ordered but, they no longer carry them. That was disappointing as well and I am not sure why they wouldn't continue to carry them. So far, a few of the great things I have read about the PM version of this lathe are no longer applicable.
Yeah, they seem to have a lot of things out of stock even before Covid hit. I'm glad I bought mine before the price increase, there will probably be more soon since ocean freight prices are skyrocketing with the shortage of shipping containers.

I don't have any pressing projects, just screwing around right now getting used to the lathe and what it is capable of, so I will take my time and decide if I keep the existing 3 jaw chuck, upgrade to a better one, go with 6 jaw... So many options LOL. I don't want to wait too long though, there are signs of big inflation coming and I would like to be set with what I need by the end of the year.
 
One thing I did notice is the jaws have different serial numbers on them, I wasn't able to find a serial number on chuck itself to see if either of the jaw sets match. The jaws on my Bison chuck match the chuck body serial number, so curious if that should be the case with the Taiwanese/Chinese chucks, and if so is that the source of the runout.

Feels like that merits a call to PM. From everything I have read, those serial numbers should match. Mine do.
 
Feels like that merits a call to PM. From everything I have read, those serial numbers should match. Mine do.
I plan on it, I’ve been putting it through it’s paces to see if I have any other questions before calling them.
 
One thing I forgot to mention about bringing the lathe down the stairs. Because the lathe is at a steep angle while on the stairs, oil leaked out of the headstock. It was a good thing I left the plastic on the skid, all the oil was contained by it and easy to clean up. If you plan on doing it this way, you might want to drain the headstock oil first.
 
I had been stressing a bit about the mediocre quality of the 3 jaw chuck included. But, my stress level dropped when I watched / read something that said while you have the part in the three jaw, the runout doesn't matter very much as long as you do all the oprations you need while the workpiece is mounted (i.e., not unmounting and trying to remount and have it centered). Someone smarter might correct me on my description

Absolutely correct!
You create the new centre of the the work piece during the first operation.
If the 3-jaw is off by 10 thou. or 50 thou. who cares? It doesn't matter!

It is only when you need to flip the work end-to-end or re-chuck that you have to start considering consequences.

-brino
 
I have the 3 phase option for this lathe and decided to make some changes to the controls when hooking up to the VFD. The first thing I did was mount a junction box to the side of my stand so that I had access to it without having to move my lathe or leave a lot of room behind it.

I have a lot of experience with VFDs and industrial controls, so decided to try some options to see how I would like to use my lathe. I had a Teco CV7300 VFD already on hand, so used that. It has PLC capabilities, but I need a special programming cable, so I am not using that yet, but might in the future. That would enable me to add more features without having a lot of relays in a junction box, and I could change how it works without any new hardware.

I have a 24v power supply in the VFD panel that supplies control voltage for the machine forward/reverse and power outage circuit. This circuit controls relays for the VFD controls. I have a power outage protection relay controlling power to the forward and reverse relays that provide signals to the VFD. This relay cuts off the 24DC controls power from the VFD until the relay is energized. When moving the lever to forward for example, the forward relay is energized giving the forward signal to the VFD. I have the pilot light on the lathe wired so that it only goes on when the protection relay is energized. This way I know at a glance if the machine is ready for operation.

I mostly make things in metric so I wanted to find options for threading while keeping the half nuts closed. I like the idea of the proximity switch to thread fast and have it shut the motor off at a predictable position, but I got to thinking about speeding up returning to the thread start since I will not be able to open the half nuts to return to the starting position. So, I installed a switch that sets the VFD speed to 50% for threading as well as setting a fast deceleration time of 1 second, and a bypass button to return the VFD to full speed when I want to reverse to the thread starting position. I can set the gears to any speed I want knowing threading will be half that speed when the switch is enabled, and at the rated speed when reversing. It speeds up threading a bit, but does take some getting used to.

I did not install a jog button and so far I don’t miss it. I have the VFD programmed for a 5 sec ramp up and use the fwd/rev lever to bump the position if I need to. I haven’t done much with that yet, so may need to change that at some point.

I plan on adding a proximity stop at some point. I already have the sensor from a previous project, just need to make a bracket for it. I think that might work well with my rapid reverse, use the push button to bypass the prox switch and fast reverse at the same time. I am also going to add a DRO at some point and have been thinking about what I would need to have a constant SFM feature. I haven’t added a potentiometer to vary the speed of the VFD yet, if I add the constant SFM feature, I will probably add the pot into that, but I haven’t really needed that yet. If I need speeds in between that gear speeds, I may be able to set my threading switch to half speed and select a speed that may be more appropriate. I haven’t done that yet, so don’t know if the reduced power is going to cause problems.

Anyways, that is where I am at with the controls and expect this to evolve over the next several months. I may not stay with how I am doing things now, but I am enjoying experimenting with different options and see what works best for me.
 
Absolutely correct!
You create the new centre of the the work piece during the first operation.
If the 3-jaw is off by 10 thou. or 50 thou. who cares? It doesn't matter!

It is only when you need to flip the work end-to-end or re-chuck that you have to start considering consequences.

-brino
In theory yes, but the more eccentric the work is held, the higher the vibration will be on larger pieces. If the chuck has runout less than the tolerances for your part, you can also rechuck it without having to go to a 4 jaw. The other issue is when you buy something new, you expect it to be within specifications. The standards I have found for Chinese chucks is 0.003” runout, I expect to get that or better.
 
I have the 3 phase option for this lathe and decided to make some changes to the controls when hooking up to the VFD. The first thing I did was mount a junction box to the side of my stand so that I had access to it without having to move my lathe or leave a lot of room behind it.

I have a lot of experience with VFDs and industrial controls, so decided to try some options to see how I would like to use my lathe. I had a Teco CV7300 VFD already on hand, so used that. It has PLC capabilities, but I need a special programming cable, so I am not using that yet, but might in the future. That would enable me to add more features without having a lot of relays in a junction box, and I could change how it works without any new hardware.

I have a 24v power supply in the VFD panel that supplies control voltage for the machine forward/reverse and power outage circuit. This circuit controls relays for the VFD controls. I have a power outage protection relay controlling power to the forward and reverse relays that provide signals to the VFD. This relay cuts off the 24DC controls power from the VFD until the relay is energized. When moving the lever to forward for example, the forward relay is energized giving the forward signal to the VFD. I have the pilot light on the lathe wired so that it only goes on when the protection relay is energized. This way I know at a glance if the machine is ready for operation.

I mostly make things in metric so I wanted to find options for threading while keeping the half nuts closed. I like the idea of the proximity switch to thread fast and have it shut the motor off at a predictable position, but I got to thinking about speeding up returning to the thread start since I will not be able to open the half nuts to return to the starting position. So, I installed a switch that sets the VFD speed to 50% for threading as well as setting a fast deceleration time of 1 second, and a bypass button to return the VFD to full speed when I want to reverse to the thread starting position. I can set the gears to any speed I want knowing threading will be half that speed when the switch is enabled, and at the rated speed when reversing. It speeds up threading a bit, but does take some getting used to.

I did not install a jog button and so far I don’t miss it. I have the VFD programmed for a 5 sec ramp up and use the fwd/rev lever to bump the position if I need to. I haven’t done much with that yet, so may need to change that at some point.

I plan on adding a proximity stop at some point. I already have the sensor from a previous project, just need to make a bracket for it. I think that might work well with my rapid reverse, use the push button to bypass the prox switch and fast reverse at the same time. I am also going to add a DRO at some point and have been thinking about what I would need to have a constant SFM feature. I haven’t added a potentiometer to vary the speed of the VFD yet, if I add the constant SFM feature, I will probably add the pot into that, but I haven’t really needed that yet. If I need speeds in between that gear speeds, I may be able to set my threading switch to half speed and select a speed that may be more appropriate. I haven’t done that yet, so don’t know if the reduced power is going to cause problems.

Anyways, that is where I am at with the controls and expect this to evolve over the next several months. I may not stay with how I am doing things now, but I am enjoying experimenting with different options and see what works best for me.
In regard to a constant SFM, how is this possible without creating a separate drive for cross-slide since its connected directly to the leadscrew?
 
In regard to a constant SFM, how is this possible without creating a separate drive for cross-slide?
You vary the spindle speed so the cutter sees the same speed relative to work piece. Say you have 4” piece of 4140 and you want face it, the spindle speed at the outer diameter needs to be slower than towards the center to keep the SFM constant and at the ideal value. I don’t know if it is practical to do, it sounds like a fun project to try.
 
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