PM-940M-CNC

Finally got the fine feed plate covered. Working on the conduit movement for the control wires. Also need to add the electronic port for the probe and mounting points for coolant and air nozzles.
290699
 
I forgot to ask, and maybe you already answered it, but how is the 1700oz-in Z motor working out for you? What kinda of speed and accel are you getting out of it?

PZ
 
Sorry Phazer I have not had a chance to complete all my conversions yet so I haven't been able to try it out.
 
fritts said:
Decided to just go Acorn after some more weirdness. Pulled the Nmotion and its power supply. Had enough room to put both the Acorn board and relay board in its place. Used some 1 in nylon spacers and 6-32 screws. Also while I was at it pulled the cabinet off the column and relocated it to the wall. Ordered some wire and nylon coated steel conduit (Electrotek on amazon). Will try and get some of it rewired this weekend. Also thinking about putting the power switches on the front of the spindle , purchased a NC E-stop as well to convert over to all NC limits and homes. The control box arm may get re purposed for mounting my laptop.

View attachment 289159View attachment 289160View attachment 289162

Still having problems getting the manual Z axis bracket off. The upper thrust washer won't come down any further and so I can only lift the Z ball screw/motor assembly so far. Any help?

View attachment 289161
Click to expand...


Hi, I am stuck in the same spot you were when you posted this.. I'm trying to remove the manual Z axis and crank, but scratching my head... Looks like I need to remove the large locknut at the bottom of the lead screw, correct? Doesn't look like a regular socket works, correct? It needs to be a spanner pin type socket? Any idea what tool removes this hard to reach (or see) locknut?
 
markf3x said:
Hi, I am stuck in the same spot you were when you posted this.. I'm trying to remove the manual Z axis and crank, but scratching my head... Looks like I need to remove the large locknut at the bottom of the lead screw, correct? Doesn't look like a regular socket works, correct? It needs to be a spanner pin type socket? Any idea what tool removes this hard to reach (or see) locknut?
Click to expand...

I managed to remove the worm gear drive end that attaches to the manual crank shaft. I only wanted to eliminate the annoying sound from that useless manual crank when the z-axis is moving. So, I did not touch the ball screw. I went in from the front under the head (after lifting the head up and supporting it with 2x4's so it doesn't come down crashing on me), and I removed the allen screw holding the worm gear. I then "walked" that gear out by turning it in place- as it turned, it advanced forward sliding on the shaft as the key was gone so was the allen screw. I remember that I removed a key to allow it to rotate. It came right out disengaging from the driven worm gear which I left in place on the ball screw. I kept the face plate of the crank in place also as it keeps that hole closed. Noise from that gear is now gone.

Hope this helps. Please ask if anything I wrote is not clear. It would help to look at the two pictures by fritts posted on March 11 2019 when he said he managed to remove the manual crank. He did a full removal; I only removed that small gear shown on the left picture, as I was only interested in getting rid of the annoying gear noise. It is tight in there- so expect few scratches as you use your fingers to turn that gear to slide it out of the shaft.
 
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