PM-833T stand height

[7milesup]

Neil, I like your stand. Put some drawers down there. How's the belt drive cnc conversion coming along? I'm still debating whether to do a liner-rail conversion of the 833 or build-from-scratch granite slab frame.

Hey Dave. Thank you. I planned on building an oak machinist chest to fit in that stand, but have too many other projects at the moment. The metalworking projects are taking a back seat at the moment due to time being invested in completing our new house. Really need to get that done.

 

[Rhizome]

Square mortiser? Check this out. Make one for your mill and sell the mortiser to generate cash for lathe tooling. LOL

No way will I part way with my mortisers. I spent a few hours leisurely cutting 16 mortises in the legs of the stand this afternoon. It was highly enjoyable watching the wood chips fly out of the chisel with the auger bit spinning.

I followed your build of the chisel attachment for your mill when you were posting it. My favorite part was when you put the outer cylinder on the mill and milled the legs. How do you manage wood chips on the mill? Cover all exposed oiled surfaces? I worry that the fine wood dust in my shop will settle on the mill ways, collect moisture, and rust.

Dry assembly to take real-time dimensions for other components of the stand and cabinet.

Paint it Sakir Orange?

 

[davidpbest]

How do you manage wood chips on the mill? Cover all exposed oiled surfaces? I worry that the fine wood dust in my shop will settle on the mill ways, collect moisture, and rust.

That's a fair concern. Sawdust doesn't mix well with milling and lathe equipment. I keep them both covered when doing woodwork. If I use the mill for slotting and the like, I cover all the exposed surfaces. The opposite is also true - my European sliding table woodworking machines do not like swarf, and they especially do not like grinding dust. So they are covered when I'm metal working. I would love to have a bigger shop I could partition into wood, metal machining, and fabrication areas. Would also be nice to be on level ground with a big crane. LOL When I ponder the thought of moving again I get kinda depressed, but I do keep rolling over in my head the idea of a 5000 sq. ft. warehouse with a luxury 1BR apartment in the back. Maybe on Whitby Island?

 

[RodSME]

I agree; consider adding drawers to the bench. As for using wood vs. metal, I built my bench top mill stand out of wood and it probably would hold up any bench top mill. My shop is also small (one car garage size). I put 3 inch cast iron casters on it, two swivel and two fixed. It also has feet at the swivel end which I lower. The attached picture is with my Grizzly G0619 on it (PM-940V on order. I'll use their stand). The top is double layer of 3/4 birch plywood. I had a local sheet metal shop cover the top with galvanized and built the back splash as well (The back splash keeps most of the chips from flying around).

 

[7milesup]

I would love to have a bigger shop I could partition into wood, metal machining, and fabrication areas. Would also be nice to be on level ground with a big crane. LOL When I ponder the thought of moving again I get kinda depressed, but I do keep rolling over in my head the idea of a 5000 sq. ft. warehouse with a luxury 1BR apartment in the back. Maybe on Whitby Island?

Wouldn't that be the cat's meow?! Prima Bistro in Langley is quite good along with the Braeburn. Lovely food out there. Getting out there is a PITA though and the traffic on 525 is abhorrent.
If I wasn't married, I would have a shop with luxury living quarters in the back. Wives cost a lot of money....

 

[M.T. Pockets]

I made the height of my stand only 27in as I like to sit down when using my machine. Most of my projects take a lot of time and being able to sit with feet flat on the floor makes things much more enjoyable.

For your wood design, I recommend adding one or two vertical beams directly under the machine and adding in some triangles/trusses. It will be a much more efficient structure as of right now you have bending moments everywhere. I also recommend mounting your machine on a steel plate of some sort. Wood stress creeps and absorbed humidity in addition to having a high rare of thermal expansion making it hard to keep the mill trammed in.

 

[Weldingrod1]

If it's not too late, think about getting your x and y handles near elbow height. That's more complicated on a knee mill, of course! Assuming your mill is compact enough you can still reach the drawbar!
My Rockwell mill's draw bar is at eyeball level. X and y vary from elbow height dow to about 2' below that.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[7milesup]

I made the height of my stand only 27in as I like to sit down when using my machine. Most of my projects take a lot of time and being able to sit with feet flat on the floor makes things much more enjoyable.

For your wood design, I recommend adding one or two vertical beams directly under the machine and adding in some triangles/trusses. It will be a much more efficient structure as of right now you have bending moments everywhere. I also recommend mounting your machine on a steel plate of some sort. Wood stress creeps and absorbed humidity in addition to having a high rare of thermal expansion making it hard to keep the mill trammed in.

Sitting while milling (or any other machining operation) is not a good idea. If a milling operation goes south, the ability to get out of the way is substantially reduced.

I would not be concerned about the wood moving and losing tram in the mill. If he has that humidity in his shop, there will be other issues.

 

[Rhizome]

The stand is done. I can not lift it off the ground. Pegged M&T joints for the frame, spline miter for the top's edge band, lock miter joints for the drawers sides. All my left over 2x4's are consumed in this project. The bottom rail is high enough to clear my pallet jack's fork. Just need to safely lift the PT833T onto it.