PM-833T EDUCATED QUILL STOP

I am looking at the factory plate as well and hesitate to remove the spindle -- any advise on this is appreciated.

Regarding paint, I just picked a paint at SW ("Light French Gray") that turned out to be reasonable close if that is any help. Compare the parallel surfaces in the picture (mill and mill stand -- not chip tray) and you get an idea.
 

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I had put one of those stops on my Jet mill. Really like the quick movement and then ease of fine adjust.
When I made my old drill press into something a bit better I put one of those on it also. Not as elegant looking as yours though.
 
j-becker said:
I am looking at the factory plate as well and hesitate to remove the spindle -- any advise on this is appreciated.

Regarding paint, I just picked a paint at SW ("Light French Gray") that turned out to be reasonable close if that is any help. Compare the parallel surfaces in the picture (mill and mill stand -- not chip tray) and you get an idea.
Click to expand...
I am in discussions with the "Machine DRO" company in England right now. They have a box that will allow summing of Z-Axis DRO and Quill using the same type of magnetic scales for each. I am looking to incorporate both in the build.

After looking at the exploded schematics on pm.com, it does look like the spindle needs to come out, but I don't THINK it needs disassembly once the spindle unit slides out the bottom of the head. I think the toughest part will be undoing the quill spring assembly, and then getting it back to tension.
 
Oh man, thank you so much for pointing out that educated nut! The factory thread-stop on my bridgeport-clone is the most annoying thing in the world. I've been using it a bunch lately, but taking 20 minutes to roll it up and down is super annoying. I have one of those spring-loaded ones, but it isn't accurate enough sometimes to get a consistent stop.
 
Did you have to cut off the original plate? or disassemble the quill?
Great job!
 
I am in the process of doing basically this, with inspiration from this and another similar thread. You DO have to remove the quill to get the stock part off in one piece (or cut it off). i was a bit nervous about it, but it turned out to be less of a hassle than i expected pretty easy really. My new version can bolt on and off without removing the quill - which is what it should have been stock. Heck, leaving the stock stop completely off would have been an improvement.
 
Finally put the mill back togetherish. Definitely learned a lot doing these little upgrades - I've got a long education ahead of me. I found the other posts really helpful in getting this far, so here is my version.

Used a Morton educated nut and made the rest of the stops parts.

Also added some angel eye LEDs on the quill - HUGE help. I gave up being tricky and just glued them to some MDF and use small rare earth magnets to hold that in place. It comes off easy and disconnects at the casting with a berell adapter. Currently 2 differenr diamerer lights, but I have a third size. I did hide the transformer in the casting and a switch above. Plan is to use the same transformer for a gooseneck , which seems key to get light right on the contact point.

The new heavier cover plate was split (after these pics) so I can install the light (and future) switches above the casting.

Also added a decent quill DRO. I now feel like I can actually use the mill and am only held back by my unlimited inexperience and ignorance!
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I bet you are lovin' those upgrades!!! Nice work!

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
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