PM-45M-CNC Setup and Configuration with Mach3

Here are some pictures

Overall view of Motion Control Board in bottom left and chassis ground block in lower right
Control-Box.jpg

A closeup of the Chasis ground block. This is where I connected the Shield wire. You could also connect one of the signal wires here instead of to the GND connection on the board.
ground-block.jpg

and finally this shows the motion control board and where I connected the two signal wires (GND in the upper right and IN7 in the bottom middle

Motion-Control-Board.jpg
 
Boswell said:
Here are some pictures

Overall view of Motion Control Board in bottom left and chassis ground block in lower right
View attachment 96873

A closeup of the Chasis ground block. This is where I connected the Shield wire. You could also connect one of the signal wires here instead of to the GND connection on the board.
View attachment 96874

and finally this shows the motion control board and where I connected the two signal wires (GND in the upper right and IN7 in the bottom middle

View attachment 96875
Click to expand...

Hello Boswell, and thanks again for the picture. Our boards are a little different but they have the same model number. My input # 7 already has a wire going to it. I guess I will try to trace it and see where it goes.
 
See the thread I created in the Precision Matthews section on the G31 issues. While I can get the probe to indicate using the diagnostic LED display, the G31 command will not work at all. No Motion. I am asking for others to try a G31 command on the MDI to see if this is unique to my system or an issue with this Motion Controller.

GaryL. That is very interesting. By default Mach3 looks for the probe on Input #7. There may be a way to use a different input and have Mach3 recognize it as the Probe input but I am not sure.
 
Hi Gentlemen,
Sorry to take this off topic a little, but I'm having issues with my E-stop not working...I found out it didn't work seconds before snapping 3/8" endmill clean off...
Anywho, I have it set port 1, pin 8 and active low. When I set it to not be active low I can't click the reset button on mach to start everything up and am told to reconfigure estop.

Would someone kindly provide me with a little assistance as to how to configure the Estop properly? I have a feeling I'm going to want it working right in the future.

Thanks folks!
 
On a standard parallel interface, I think the default pin for an E-stop is 13. Pins 10 - 13 and 15 are inputs. Pins 1 - 9, 14, 16, 17 are outputs. It sounds like you have the E-stop on an output pin, it should be on an input.
 
Hmm...Swapped the pin numbers around and that didn't change anything. Even then though, When I take it off active low It locks up mach and won't let me restart it.

All these fine details keep on nipping me in the butt!
 
Jamespvill, On my PM45M-CNC the E-Stop is wired to Input 8. you can see the picture of the board a few posts back.
Here is a screen capture of the Mach3 Ports and Pins config page.
ports and pins 6.jpg

If you have it set like this and things do not work, I would recommend that you go into the diag page in mach3 and see what the E-Stop LED shows. It could be that there is a fault on the E-STOP circuit. It is (should be) setup so that if there is a broken wire then the system will be in E-STOP mode. In other words, all of the estop switches are Normaly Closed and OPEN when pressed. I hope this makes sense.
 
Take it off of Active Low and then run a jumper from the Motion control board (Pin 8) to ground. See if this works. If it does, then you probably have a bad wire, connection or switch somewhere in the circuit. You are using a PM45M-CNC, right ?
 
Boswell said:
Take it off of Active Low and then run a jumper from the Motion control board (Pin 8) to ground. See if this works. If it does, then you probably have a bad wire, connection or switch somewhere in the circuit. You are using a PM45M-CNC, right ?
Click to expand...

Hey Boswell, I am in fact using a PM45CNC - I at least managed to get that right!

So when I turn active low off and go to the diag page the Emergency LED is flashing red regardless of whether I have the Estop depressed or not.

Also, looking at the board, I wanted to double check where I am gonna be poking wires...I see two "8's" on there, In and out, which of those do I want to jump? Also, I would assume one of them would be wired to the Estop, I'm sure I'm missing something here.

Thanks for the help!
Estop.png Board.png
 
It should be IN #8 and yes it should be wired to your E-Stop and possibly Limit (not Home) switches. can't remember if the Limit Switches are just part of the E-Stop circuit or if they have their own circuit. You can test this quickly by manually depressing a Limit Switch, like the one on Z axis 2/3 of the way up the column. if one of the other LED's light then they are separate (this is a good thing). I think they are typically wired in series and because it is a Normaly Closed circuit, if any of the switches gets activated (OPENED) then it breaks the circuit and causes an E-STOP signal.

Step 1. Disconnect the Pendent. Does this solve the issue ?

Step 2. Disconnect the wire that is currently in I8. Jump I8 to ground. If the Emergency light goes out then you can be pretty sure that it is an E-Stop Switch or the wiring to and from it. I

Step 3. Reconnect the wire in I8 and then access the back of the E-Stop switch. Visually inspect for damage or loose wires. Be sure the E-Stop switch is in the RUN position and then use a jumper to Jump across the switch. There should just be two wires going to the switch and you want to "connect" Them. If the Emergency LED goes out then you know the switch is bad.

It is interesting that you circuit board is different from mine. Where does the smaller ribbon cable got to ? I assume the larger one goes to the Pendent.
 
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