PM-1340GT/833T(V): Lots of questions

synfinatic

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So I'm at that point where I'm seriously thinking about pulling the trigger on a lathe & mill. Been lurking here and other places and doing a lot of research and right now I'm looking at the PM-1340GT and PM-833TV (or maybe just T???). A big thanks to everyone here on this forum in particular for posting up your experiences and thoughts about these machines.

These will be my first machines and I've watched a lot of videos, have seen lathes and CNC mills operate in person a few times, etc, but no hands on experience. Right now the plan is to get both at the same time, but I might just start out with the lathe at first. I'm 100% hobbyist and never going to try "go pro" so not planning on using this every day. I'm squarely in the "buy once, cry once" camp, but there are limits. For example a knee mill is just too big from what I can tell to fit in my garage (well at least without making compromises I'm not willing to make). Sure I'd love something like a 1440GT, but I just can't rationalize the price. Basically, I feel that these are the nicest, biggest machines I can stomach.

Anyways, a number questions:

First about the 1340GT:
  1. I'm trying to figure out where this should go in my garage. Realistically, how much of a gap will I need behind the machine (assuming it will be up against a wall)? Seems like it might end up with a foot or more for the 1340GT since I'll be using an engine hoist to install it and will need to put one of the legs behind the base? I don't own an engine hoist so will have to buy, borrow or rent so not exactly sure what is reasonable here and I've never installed something like this. Also, not sure about any concerns for maintenance, wiring, etc.
  2. Speaking of engine hoists, I am a little worried about clearance during install since the area of my garage I'm looking to install it has some built-in storage 85" above the floor. I assume that should be plenty to work, but probably better to check if anyone has tried to install it in a similar situation.
  3. How much room to the side of the headstock is reasonable? I assume without any support other than the spider I would make myself, realistically with the 1-9/16" hole a couple of feet is more than enough before things get scary? I'll probably want a few feet just to access the change gears, wiring, etc as well.
  4. I understand the tail stock doesn't really need any space off to the right?
  5. I used to hear that lighter machines with less HP really should use HSS. Lately though, I've noticed more people are talking up the benefits of carbide tooling for hobbyist machines. Not to mention "light and low power" is relative- although I assume the 1340GT still qualifies? I was originally kinda afraid of having to not just learn how to use these machines, but also how to grind HSS tools, but watching some videos... doesn't seem that hard to learn. Also, not all carbide tooling is equal. I'm so confused now. If I can go carbide and make the learning curve a bit less steep, I'm very tempted to do that. Basically what I'm asking is for recommendations, ideally with links or names to things that don't suck too much, but when the newbie breaks it won't have him crying. If the PM kits aren't horrible then happy to get those. Or if I should do HSS that's awesome too... any recommendations for good bang/buck?
  6. Never used a lathe before and seems like getting the 3ph option + VFD is a nice upgrade since it allows more fine control as well as higher RPM than stock (2000 apparently is perfectly reasonable with the Norton gearbox). I also grok that doing a VFD right isn't exactly cheap, but if it's worth it, then it's something I'd strongly consider doing. Seems like people got by for 100 years without VFD's, but then again we survived riding horses for longer than that and I sure don't want to give up my car. Or just get the 1ph motor and run it like that and worry about upgrading to VFD later? Sounds like the PM 3ph motor actually works pretty well for VFD, but there are better options? Mostly, not sure if VFD really helps newbies like myself enough to warrant the added upfront cost.
  7. Should I be concerned the cross slide only has markings for +/-60deg? I assume if you want to cut threads at 29deg you just eyeball it? No idea if other, unmarked values are at all useful?
  8. Curious about other accessories like drill chucks, BXA tool posts, live centers, "high precision" 3 & 4 jaw lathe chucks, etc? If not from PM, do you have suggestions for reasonably priced quality options that is appropriate for these machines?
  9. Sounds like I'll probably want to replace the belt and tool post right away and get some basic tooling. I figure my first lathe projects will be learning projects and things that will be useful- like a machinist hammer. Any other things/tooling I should consider buying up front?
  10. Was not planning on getting DRO. But, some people say once you get DRO on a lathe you'll never go back?
And the 833T(V):
  1. Same question about the gap to the wall in the rear. Is 6" enough? I assume that would give me enough room to do whatever I might need, like tram the column?
  2. I have a heavy duty (and quite heavy) metal storage box for ammo. Measures 28"W x 32"D x 30"H. I'd love to be able to put it right next to the mill on the right hand side in the corner of the garage. I think it is low enough it should clear the table when it moves, but I am worried that would just be in the way should I ever need to "do something"? I assume if I do this, getting the Z axis power feed option is almost mandatory since it would likely make it harder for me to manually rotate the Z crank (especially since I'm 5'7"). Optionally, I may end up putting it on the left side of the mill (not in the corner) for other logistical purposes. That might end up being better option due to the Z crank?
  3. No quill DRO seems pretty lame and I've yet to find a write up of someone adding one. Seems totally doable though right? Any tips?
  4. So I get the 833T will drill large holes in steel better than the 833TV. Honestly, I don't know if I will ever CNC my mill, but I do expect to primarily use aluminum for my projects which has me leaning towards the TV model. That said, I assume the 833TV can do larger holes in steel, just means doing it differently/slower?
  5. Seems like the X & Z power feeds and DRO for the 833T are generally considered "must buys" sooner rather than later. Worth getting from PM?
  6. PM is of course offering a bunch of other accessories. From what I gather, I'm probably better off with a high quality vise for the mill sold elsewhere. Beyond that, I don't hear much about their price vs. quality? Collets, keyless drill chucks, etc?
  7. Recommendations for tooling to start off with? I know some 2 & 4 flute endmils for steel/aluminum, roughers, something to face and the vise, clamps/T nuts and parallels. Seems like there are a billion options and it's rather overwhelming. If there are any "starter kits" you can recommend that would be awesome.
  8. People do seem to complain about the draw bar on the 833T(V) being difficult to use. Thoughts? I haven't searched for an aftermarket power draw bar option. Might be a cool project though. :)
  9. Are people finding the column trammed well enough from the factory? Maybe it's just me, but trying to do it right the first time on my $6K mill and knowing I'm epoxying it in place as it drys is scary. Seems like it would be a really expensive mistake to get wrong.
General questions:
  1. There are flood coolant options for both and I grok the value of coolant, but I also know other options exist (FogBuster, etc) but other than "coolant good" I don't know much. Worth getting from PM?
  2. I also will need a band saw. PM sells a "mid priced" one. I've seen a band saw operate a few times, and I really don't understand the difference between a $1300 and $2500 band saw, but I do see the difference from the $300 one from HF. I'm sure the $2500 options are "better" somehow, but do I really need/want it and just not know it yet or am I totally fine paying $1300? I assume it's better than the one from HF for $1K?
  3. General wiring question: I have 100A into a small panel into my garage. The electric car charger is on a 240/40A breaker and my 60gal compressor is on a 240/30A. The panel is full (the other 120V breakers are doubles) and would like to avoid installing a larger one if possible. Was thinking of just running power from the lathe/mill to the outlet for the compressor and then just plug in whatever machine I need as necessary. Thoughts? Since it's a 60gal compressor I was thinking I probably wouldn't need to run it that often while running the machines, but that might overly optimistic and I really need to budget in for a bigger panel or maybe wire the machines in to the car charger circuit- although that may be more expensive for the lathe due to the wiring distance.
  4. Lastly, is there anything you wish someone told you before you bought all this stuff and threw it in your garage? I know the basics (You'll end up spending equal or more in tooling than for the machine.) and I've read various reports and threads by David Best and others here. Seems like the 1340GT is a clear favorite while the 833T seems like a good quality machine with a few unfortunate quirks that are dictated by its price point?
Whew... I think that's it?
 
Here’s my advice: If I did not have a Bridgeport and a 2500 pound lathe, I would be miserable. As it is, I am only occasionally sad.
Mainly about not having a DoAll bandsaw.
 
Lol. You've narrowed it down. That's awesome. I think the 1340GT is a great choice (it's the one I'm leaning towards myself for my first lathe) If I was going with a desk top, Taiwanese mill, I think the 833T would be my choice also. One thing in your post above did concern me you said:

...the area of my garage I'm looking to install it has some built-in storage 85" above the floor.

Was that just in the area for the lathe? If so, that's probably fine, but the 833T would be limited there. It has a max height on a stand of 88". It says more typically 75", but you need to figure max height of the machine, plus a bit of room for accessing your draw bar.

Anyhow, I'll let someone with more experience answer your specific questions. I mainly just wanted to welcome you aboard and congratulate you on your decision. I grew up in San Jose. What part do you live in?
 
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points for using the word grok !
 
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Lol. You've narrowed it down. That's awesome. I think the 1340GT is a great choice (it's the one I'm leaning towards myself for my first lathe) If I was going with a desk top, Taiwanese mill, I think the 833T would be my choice also. One thing in your post above did concern me you said:

...the area of my garage I'm looking to install it has some built-in storage 85" above the floor.

Was that just in the area for the lathe? If so, that's probably fine, but the 833T would be limited there. It has a max height on a stand of 88". It says more typically 75", but you need to figure max height of the machine, plus a bit of room for accessing your draw bar.

Anyhow, I'll let someone with more experience answer your specific questions. I mainly just wanted to welcome you aboard and congratulate you on your decision. I grew up in San Jose. What part do you live in?

Yeah, that's just the area for the lathe. The mill area has a much higher ceiling and the 88" won't be a problem.

I'm over off of Bascom, near the Pruneyard.
 
I have the 833T. If it was available when I bought my mill I would have opted for the 833TV. Reason being is that the 833TV is belt driven resulting in a quieter mill (mine is louder than I expected) along with a higher top end speed which is better for aluminum. I believe that the 833TV is also a better candidate for CNC conversion because of the existing belt drive configuration.
Congrats on your decision.
 
If you would like some constructive feedback, DM me. I have used a PM1340GT for 6 years, and a benchtop mill like the 833 for almost 20 years. In addition I'm writing a book for people like you about indexable carbide tooling for the lathe (see attached).
 

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