PM-1030V ways cover

[Lotus54]

I finally got around to making the ways cover for my PM-1030v. I recently (perhaps foolishly) bought a 3D printer (Bambulabs X1-C) and have been working on learning Fusion 360.
I figured this would be a good thing to start with, since it is quite simple.

I printed up a part that covers the carriage, with screw holes and holes for oiling spots. Then on the chuck side, a simple plate holds the cover. I removed the one that was there, and didn’t worry about going down as far it the original goes, since the cover will likely keep almost all the chips out of there (yeah, sure- like chips won’t go all over anyway).

It was cheap and seems to work reallywell.

The accordian cover I used (I looked at some from Granger, but $$$- so to make sure it even works, I went cheap).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2754429572...M5_NqS6Tri&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I have the Fusion 360 files and STL files if anyone wants them (although maybe just as easy to do it yourself).

And of course I didn’t clean the darn machine up before taking pictures. Jeeessshhh.
Oh yeah, I could not find the screws I wanted locally, so just used what I could find and will get some button allen screws (8mm)

 

[Pfeffa]

The holes on the carriage you are using to mount the cover to - what was the original function of those? Did you replace the original fasteners in them with screws that extend up enough for your cover or do your new screws somehow attach to the top of the old fasteners?

Have you ever needed to remove the cover to provide clearance for some operation?
I am contemplating a cover which is held in place by bar magnets, so it can be readily removed - but that's of little consequence if you rarely need to remove it...

And which width material did you get? And is it sufficient to keep most chips off the lead screw as well as the ways?

 

[Red96]

Those holes are for mounting the follow rest. Your design makes it easy to accommodate the follow-rest, should a need arise. Mine's still in the box.

I made a short plate for the first 3-4", and intend to add something flexible for the remainder like your accordion style cover. Have a nice piece of lambskin I might use for that. When determining the length of the plate I made, I tried to come up with the most chuck-crowding scenario, so my plate wouldn't interfere with getting close enough to the chuck by bumping up against the headstock.. So, put on my shallowest chuck and tool that works the closest to the chuck in a AXA holder to determine how long the plate could be without interference. Well, that worked great.... Until I needed to bore out a hole on the lathe. Hadn't considered that scenario, of course! Or drilling, now that I think about it! Oh well, 2 screws later, the plate is out of the way and waiting to be shortened up now..

I liked the idea of a plate directly under the hot chips, with flexible cover the rest of the distance to the chuck. Needs to be quick-release, as I'm not making a cover for any possible work length and dealing with the bunching at the headstock - just making it to cover the working envelope I dwell in the bulk of the time. Plus, I can drop a magnetic indicator on the plate to track my Z when machining features. Need a DRO someday!

 

[Lotus54]

Like mentioned above, follower rest (which I’ve never used yet).

It does keep most the of the chips off the ways and quite a bit off the lead screw. But I do aluminium most often, which doesn’t make as much as a mess as some materials.

If I get really close to the chuck I have to be careful that the cover folds up properly, or it can ‘rise up’ and touch the chuck. I’ve never had an issue with it-but since I used one pretty long, it can happen. A shorter one would not so do, and a 1020V doesn’t need as long as the 1030.

My first thought was to use magnets, but I didn’t have any and this was easy. So far still working just fine and easy to lift and still clean ways.