Picked Up A Craftsman Drill Press Today

I got my manual at vintage machinery also. I've found several restoration protects on the same drill press. They look really nice when they are all painted and shined up.

As far as I know I don't need any parts, again I may replace the bearings, but hopefully they are standard off the shelf items. I'll put a new cord on it before I do much with it. It's pretty frayed and not safe in my opinion. The drive screws ill be easy to get out, the holes for them are drilled through so some gentle persuasion from the back should pop them right out.

I sold the Clausing, didn't work out so well for me. Broke even on it. I'm looking for something newer.

I understand what your saying about special tools. I love looking in the GM manuals and see the special J---whatever tool they recommend.
 
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alloy said:
Got this for $50 at a garage sale today. Do I need it, no. Is it way cool.............YES!!! :)

It's it great condition and has only one small mark on the table. Runs perfectly. Don't know too much about it yet, just got it home and out of the car and haven't had time to do much research on it. Although I did just find a PDF file of the operating instructions and parts list.

I'd like to restore it to new condition and the cleaning and painting the cast parts is easy, I have a bead blaster to use. I just don't know how to make the rusted parts like the column and chuck and motor look new.

From what I can see so far the only repair needed is a new cord, it's cracked and frayed and needs a 3 wire cord with a ground. Looks like it has the original chuck key and the vise that came with it when new. It has a nice 1/2" Jacobs chuck on it.

I looked at how the name plates and the wrap around trim plate are installed with the Ser rivets and when they made it they drilled the holes through for the rivets. So it's a simple task of gently driving them out from behind.

Any suggestions on how to restore it would be greatly appreciated.

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General rules: How did the factory finish- machine the various surfaces. The
question you were about to ask---- only sand- blast surfaces from which you have
Chemically removed most of the paint,with coarse grit and low pressure. ( I
meant to say painted as cast surfaces )........BLJHB.
 
kvt said:
The wrench looks similar to one I had at one point for doing the oil plugs on some old rear ends. They had them into a bad spot to get at. At times I think the people that make cars and trucks that require special tools do it just so that their friend in another company can sell the tools. Like your drill press, I'm still looking for what I want, It needs to be a floor model rather than a bench model.
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MY pal found a suitable long strong pipe to extend his drill press into a floor mounted pillar drill . It was fixed /set to the floor with high tensile steel chemical anchor bolts in the concrete
For his home made table height stop he added a simple long precision stainless steel threaded bar to a collar he'd set up at the rear of the table and bored out the the nut for it at 40 or so degrees to the vertical so that if you slant the nut when it's not under pressure you can slide it up & down the threads easily and then tip the nut parallel to the floor to lock onto the threads of the bar . It seemed to have worked out exceedingly well .
 
alloy said:
Got this for $50 at a garage sale today. Do I need it, no. Is it way cool.............YES!!! :)
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I bought one of those at a yard sale 20 years ago, paid $75 for it. I since have gotten a south bend out of the scrap pile and fixed it up , BUT I still use that king-seely often ....I haven't had to do anything to mine ....I like the original paint which has held up well ....the SB got a coat of grey....They are both great old US Iron and everyone should have more of these machines,than space allows !!
 
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