Past due oil change

[mksj]

Most likely your gear head will take less than 1 gallon, usually ISO32 is recommended unless you are in a very warm environment. Gearbox and carriage are typically ISO68 oil viscosity and will take probably a quart on your size lathe. I use Miles Hydraulic R&0 oil's, you can get a 5 Gallon pale for around $92 shipped and sign up for their email and get 15% off, I routinely get 20% off emails from them. Multipurpose R&O Oil is a rust and oxidation (R&O)-inhibited, anti-wear circulating oil developed for use in circulation systems, centrifugal air compressors, geared turbines, lightly loaded enclosed gear drives and many other industrial applications. Many hydraulic systems will be shared with gear drives, and the oil may be used with gears that do not have high loading. There are some difference in gear oils vs. hydraulic oils, but in a smaller lathes it will make no difference. Condensation will occur over time, so a regular (annual) changing of the oil is more important as to longevity.

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[Jake M]

ISO 32 or 46/SAE20 and Circulating oil.

No. Sorry I wasn't clear enough. SAE 20 was for a reference you might have heard of, but you're not looking for that one. It'll be the right viscosity, but the wrong oil. Whatever way you find the oil, it's going to be on the ISO viscosity scale.

I missed that you need two differnt ones. 320 SSU (Assuming it's at 100 degrees like the other, and I can't imagine it isn't) is going to be an ISO 68.... Same advice as all the above, just substitute the 68 for the 32 or 46.

Are you SURE about only using a quart? Those are tough, as these fluids usually come in buckets, barrels, and train cars. If you are sure (I have no idea), and you need two flavors- If you only need three of those four flavors, that might work out... If you need more than a quart of any of them, you'll get burned doing it this way. Also a ton of other listings from that seller, maybe they have closer to what you need. Check where that seller is from, how far away is that from you? No idea, I don't know 'em, except that I bought a pack of pints from them several years ago to get me started.

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[trainman2]

I am reluctant to buy 5gal pails of oil. Can I compromise and get a smaller quantity of one grade to use in both the apron and headstock? I found 1 gal of Mobil DTE heavy/medium ISO68

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-100959-Amber-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B071VDKSGZ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=13D8O4GX1XD1I&keywords=mobil+dte+heavy%2Fmedium+circulating+oil&qid=1682860596&sprefix=mobil+dte+circulating+oil%2Caps%2C222&sr=8-1

 

[matthewsx]

You can buy single gallons but the price usually drops as you go up in quantity, and you'll be using it anyway for doing changes.

I have a somewhat similar lathe and use tractor hydraulic oil for everything including general purpose cutting. I might be wearing out my machine quicker by not using the "correct" oil but at the rate I use my tools I'll be long gone before it makes a difference.

YMMV,

John

 

[twraska]

You can buy single gallons but the price usually drops as you go up in quantity, and you'll be using it anyway for doing changes.

I have a somewhat similar lathe and use tractor hydraulic oil for everything including general purpose cutting. I might be wearing out my machine quicker by not using the "correct" oil but at the rate I use my tools I'll be long gone before it makes a difference.

YMMV,

John

The only thing a ‘tractor oil’ has over a regular hydraulic oil is some added friction modifiers for the wet clutches and brakes and possibly something to suspend moisture. It has zinc which is the anti-wear additive hydraulic oil has.

 

[matthewsx]

Most important for me is it’s advertised as okay for old tractors with bronze or brass components so it won’t mess up my old machine.

 

[trainman2]

I finally purchased 5gal of Mobile DTE ISO46 Circulating oil. This will be a lifetime supply for me. This takes me back to my original question "how do you drain and fill the headstock". The owner's manual has what looks like a hand drawn picture pointing to two holes over the spindle bearings. I purchased a large syringe to fill from there but there is no drain hole.?
The quick change has a fill and drain plug. Nothing on the apron but removing the forward/reverse lever screws drained it.
Does anyone have one of these machines and has changed the oil?

 

[matthewsx]

<snip>You'll want to keep oil off the belt as much as possible.

John

 

[Firstram]

I finally purchased 5gal of Mobile DTE ISO46 Circulating oil. This will be a lifetime supply for me. This takes me back to my original question "how do you drain and fill the headstock". The owner's manual has what looks like a hand drawn picture pointing to two holes over the spindle bearings. I purchased a large syringe to fill from there but there is no drain hole.?
The quick change has a fill and drain plug. Nothing on the apron but removing the forward/reverse lever screws drained it.
Does anyone have one of these machines and has changed the oil?

There should be drain plugs below the sight glass.

 

[SWIGIN]

You need to pull the sight glass to drain these types of machines.