Parting cast iron

I was going to give it a shot, but after flipping the parting blade over I was unable to lower the tool holder enough to get the tip of the blade on the centerline of the work... I'm not sure if I'm missing something. I'd like try it so if anyone can tell me what I may be doing wrong I would be most appreciative . Thanks
Yeah, that's a problem all right. I made a new blade holder out of scrap and years later still haven't fitted CSK screws or tidied it up or made a Mk.II. so excuse the roughness. It was a rainy afternoon job.
I have conventional holders for both insert blades and HSS but only occasionally use the HSS when a really thin cut is needed.
 

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Assuming you got the T-slots to mount it to, otherwise we're talking a whole mess of work when really one could just improve one's parting technique :)
Amen. Although it can be frustrating and elusive at times to find a combination of settings that work, parting off in the conventional way is not impossible. The same principles of rigidity and tool alignment apply when parting from the front or back, and this has to be optimized before talking feeds and speeds.
 
So, you're recommending I go with a tandem tap?
I beg to differ; cast iron is always recommended to be cut dry, the use of any lubricant just makes a God awful mess and is unnecessary. With tapping, the use of a tapping fluid may be helpful to reduce torque and the possibility of breaking a tap, but I would avoid oily fluids.

I've tried cutting cast iron both dry and wet. Cutting dry has always ended up with the machine covered in grit. It took longer to clean the machine than it did to make the cut. Then I started using a dab of heavy cutting oil to help contain the dust. It didn't interfere with the cutting process other than needing to withdraw the tool a few times to clean off the accumulated goo.

As I said I don't do much, but the next time I do it I'll dry and try using the shop vacuum idea. I should know in short order whether the vacuum will better contain the mess
 
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