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Parting Blade Question
- Thread starter WarrenP
- Start date
I agree with you. I didnt go into the details about the material type because I didnt want to get to far off of the OP original post but good find and I guess I should have explained. I have a T15 T-type blade thats 3/32” x 11/32” that I cut the bottom off to fit my 1/2” Aloris parting tool holder. This is a monster of a blade and I’ve never had any chatter issues or springiness effecting the cut. I have 2 unique grinds (leading edge reliefs) on each end of the blade for various things I do with it. The second T15 T-type blade is 1/8” x 1/2”. Same relief grind on the one side but none on the opposite end. The third is a M2 T-type blade also 1/8” x 1/2”. I prefer the T15 HSS over the M2 HSS as IMO they are more stiff. I’d also like to note that my blades must be discontinued. They are flat on the top. It appears as though Somma only offers the T-type blades with a concave ground top.
I guess you have the wedge type parting blade holder. The one I use is called a SHARS P3N "P" Type 3/32, make sure to get the right size. My BXA holder takes 11/16 blades you may need the 1/2" blades at 1/8"? I buy blades one at a time, so the "Discount Tool eBay Store" is my go to place for small purchases. Shars blades have been fine so far. The 3/32" blades hold up better for me on my 12x36.
I ended up switching mainly to carbide insert tooling a couple years ago, I use the MGM-200 size grooving tools with decent quality inserts for the application. I've been using the Korean Korloy 3030 MGM-200 for my steel parting operations and I have a couple other no-name Asian brands that I like too. I do a lot of grooving and I just part with the same tool. Easier that way. So far the Asian tooling has been cost effective with decent durability. I get far more parting operations from an insert tool before I need to sharpen a cut off blade. Its a time saver for me. The MGM-200 size works well enough I haven't tried other carbide sizes. The ones I use are cheap, about $9 to $14 for ten of them. I only have a slow 12x36 lathe, but I find carbide works fine for some things. Its very convenient.
The best thing I ever did to help with the parting cuts was adding a cool mist system, it beats oil and flood coolant hands down. I haven't used flood coolant in a long time. I run a cheap mister from bangood.com with Kool Mist 77, makes things much more pleasant and parts come off just warm to the touch. The air pressuer blows out the chips and the coolant lubricates and cools. I run 6 oz to a gallon. I put these on my Lathe and on the bench mill, they work great IMO for $14: https://www.banggood.com/Mist-Coola...e-Cooling-Sprayer-p-987371.html?rmmds=myorder
I hate to jack the OP thread but what else do you need to go with the coolmist from banggood ? Does this help directly up to the air compressor and no fluid pump is needed ? I don’t really know much about any coolant system other than dipping the brush in oil, lol
The mister uses an 8 mm air line, thats 3/16" I.D. vinyl line I think. That line slips into the mister's connector and my other end has a hose barb fitting connected to a quick disconnect coupled to a little regulator which feeds from shop air. I use a dedicated regulator because my shop air stays at 80 psi and other people are using it too. You could run it directly to your compressor and use the regulator on it set at 20 psi or so.
I got the small fittings and the clear vinyl hose at my local Ace Hardware cheap. The clear hose is really low cost and I ran about 10' off each machine overhead out of the way to my wall air outlet. The little air regulators at Harbor Freight work good, I have a few of them in different sizes. I use a small water bottle as a coolant reservoir, one at each machine. I like to refill often, say once a week or so to keep the coolant fresh and clear. A 12 oz bottle works fine. The mister comes with the suction line set up. There are two valves on the mister, one for air flow and one on the suction side. I run enough air to blow chips away and enough coolant for the job. The adjustments work good, you want the model with the two valves. I've had mine for a couple years now, my oldest one is still working like new.
I JB welded a 20 lbs magnet on one, it sticks to the side of my PM-727M very well and can be moved easily.
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2014
- Messages
- 7,594
8 mm (.315") is equivalent to 5/16" (.3125"). That is the correct size for the vinyl tubing needed for the air connection. The connections are quick, foolproof, and easy to install and remove.
I use Kool Mist per the instructions, 4 ounces per gallon, I actually use 2 liter soda bottles and use 2 ounces for an almost full bottle (2 quarts.) That easily lasts a full day's work, with overtime. I have not tried richer mixtures, because it works great at the recommended lower concentration. I also suppose a richer mixture would leave a sticky residue. Those Chinese mister units work just fine, the one I have cost around $11.50, including freight! It works so well, and is so cheap, that I am considering getting a couple more, one for my lathe and one for my mill. The one I bought has become pretty much dedicated to the surface grinder, where is makes a night and day difference in the quality of the work that comes off the machine and in the quality of the air I breathe while grinding, even with a dust mask on. At the price they sell the misters for it is affordable to buy a separate one for each machine. The flood coolant on my 13x40 lathe has never been used, and I doubt it ever will be while I own it...
Depends on how the vinyl hose is measured. Locally, my favorite store measures the I.D. size and the sell US made hose, so its in inches to start with. Those 8mm push in connectors work perfectly with 3/16" I.D. size clear vinyl hose. Lowes had an 8mm O.D. vinyl hose in a big roll, but I didn't test fit it. I just bought mine by the foot at my local lumber yard / Ace Hardware, it was about $0.16 a foot there.
6 ounces per gallon has worked for me, I tried 4 ounces at first and my larger drill bits squeaked more. I use the coolant for drilling and boring large holes on my mill. Bits last longer than when I used dark cutting oil. The biggest improvement with drilling was with 3/8" bits and larger. I've doubled the useful life of my expensive 1" bits.
6 ounces per gallon has worked for me, I tried 4 ounces at first and my larger drill bits squeaked more. I use the coolant for drilling and boring large holes on my mill. Bits last longer than when I used dark cutting oil. The biggest improvement with drilling was with 3/8" bits and larger. I've doubled the useful life of my expensive 1" bits.
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