Hello guys. I’m in the process of making a sleeve for my milling spindle that should allow me to use the square bridgeeport style Collette locating pin on my Chinese mill. I’m making the sleeve out of 1144 stress relieved because it’s all I have that’s close to that size. Question is am I ok using hss parting blades? If so and pointers would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first time parting and boring so I’m a little nervous. Just want to make sure I cover all my bases before I get started. Thanks
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Parting 1144SR
- Thread starter Pevehouse
- Start date
If it's your first time parting, I'd strongly suggest practicing on some scrap first. Parting is one of those things that few people get right the first time. Key things:
Parting blade exactly on center.
Parting blade square (perpendicular) to the work
Steady feed. I go mostly by sound - should be like sizzling bacon. I think most people don't feed fast enough at first, but you want to take a constant chip.
Keep it lubed, I'm usually squirting or brushing oil into the cut with the hand that's not running the cross-slide.
Keep the parting blade stick out to as little as required (just slightly more than the depth of cut needed).
If you have a good HSS parting blade, 1144 shouldn't be a problem.
Again, practice on some scrap before parting something you have work into.
HTH,
GsT
Parting blade exactly on center.
Parting blade square (perpendicular) to the work
Steady feed. I go mostly by sound - should be like sizzling bacon. I think most people don't feed fast enough at first, but you want to take a constant chip.
Keep it lubed, I'm usually squirting or brushing oil into the cut with the hand that's not running the cross-slide.
Keep the parting blade stick out to as little as required (just slightly more than the depth of cut needed).
If you have a good HSS parting blade, 1144 shouldn't be a problem.
Again, practice on some scrap before parting something you have work into.
HTH,
GsT
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 7,295
Yes, you are ok parting 1144 with HSS. It cuts very well. A practice run might help. Cutter on centerline and perpendicular to the spindle axis.
If I want a nice clean straight part I indicate the parting blade. Eyeballing it isn't good enough, at least for me.
1144 is very free cutting. Love working with it.
If I want a nice clean straight part I indicate the parting blade. Eyeballing it isn't good enough, at least for me.
1144 is very free cutting. Love working with it.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 7,295
Made out of 1" diameter 1144.
M8x1 single pointed internal thread, 1/2"-20 external single pointed thread. Had a lot of fun making this last year.
M8x1 single pointed internal thread, 1/2"-20 external single pointed thread. Had a lot of fun making this last year.
You mixed metric and proper units on the same part? There are auto manufacturers looking to hire you...
GsT
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 7,295
Metric airgun, pencil barrel with M8x1 thread I had to match. PP700SA, 0.22cal. Once the adapter (barrel nut) is installed, it rarely comes off.
Standard Airgun moderator thread = 1/2"-20.
Have to admit, not the best combination, but hey, that's what I had to match up in one piece. Printed a thread protector, well, because I was lazy. This airgun didn't come (stock) with a moderator adapter, so I made one. Took me a day to design it, and a day to make. I enjoyed every minute of it.
Standard Airgun moderator thread = 1/2"-20.
Have to admit, not the best combination, but hey, that's what I had to match up in one piece. Printed a thread protector, well, because I was lazy. This airgun didn't come (stock) with a moderator adapter, so I made one. Took me a day to design it, and a day to make. I enjoyed every minute of it.
Just want to say thanks to everyone for responding. I too am an avid high powered air gun collector. Love my pcps.while I have everyone’s attention let me ask one more question regarding boring bars. I got a cheap Chinese set of metric micro bars but can’t seem to find an axa tool holder small enough. Where should I be looking. Thanks
You will get your best results by making a holder. Cut a bit of square stock, drill it to the diameter of your boring bar, then split it along the outside edge. Not only will this solve your holder problems, it will substantially increase the rigidity of your bar.
GsT
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2020
- Messages
- 1,193
One thing I didn't see mentioned is to engage the carriage lock after you're got things all lined up. You absolutely don't want the blade moving either closer or farther away...lock it down solid.
As far as the boring bars go you often have to shim them, or make sleeves, to get the smaller ones on center. If they're the kind that have indexing flats on top and bottom I just make a shim. If they're round I'll often make a sleeve that is slit lengthwise....put the bar in the sleeve, put the sleeve in the tool holder, adjust the insert position where you want it, and tighten down the set screws.
As far as the boring bars go you often have to shim them, or make sleeves, to get the smaller ones on center. If they're the kind that have indexing flats on top and bottom I just make a shim. If they're round I'll often make a sleeve that is slit lengthwise....put the bar in the sleeve, put the sleeve in the tool holder, adjust the insert position where you want it, and tighten down the set screws.