Pared Down 1440GT Order

You can download the manual from the PM site. As far as change gears this is what the manual says:

KEY FACTS TO REMEMBER ... TPI threads When configured for inch thread cutting (30T upper, 60T lower), with just one exception the lathe cuts all UNC and UNF threads from 1/8” (#5) to 4” diameter, 44 TPI to 4 TPI, without the need to change gears. The exception is 13 TPI, which requires 65T as the lower gear. For inch thread cutting, the 127T larger gear is simply an idler, transferring the drive from the upper gear to the lower gear. In this configuration, the spacer bushing is outside the lower gear, as Figure 3-18.

Metric threads With the change gears supplied the lathe cuts all COARSE metric threads from M3 to M36 (pitches 0.5 to 4.0 mm) and all FINE metric threads from M4 to M100 (pitches 0.5 to 6.0 mm). For metric thread cutting, the lower gear is driven by the 120T transposing gear. In this configuration, not shown, the spacer bushing is inside the lower gear.

Gear swapping Any change to the drive train typically calls for one or both of the upper and lower gears to be exchanged for a larger or smaller gear. This will require the transposing gear pair to be repositioned.

There have been several posts on the 1340 and 1440, and I know there are several members here who have experience with them.



I know you like the PM machines, but have you looked on Craigslist, your money will go a lot farther on a used machine.

This one has been recently re-posted but is has been up for months, I bet you could get it for less than you are looking at on that 14x40. I see lots of 14-16" lathes go through CL, they are bigger than most can fit so tend to linger. The 10-12" usually move pretty fast if priced well.

24x120"

Yeah, it is big, but it is smaller than a car so should fit into your garage. Power could be an issue, they don't mention its power supply needs.


This 15x60 is in Fremont and has been up for some time as well, asking is less than a new 1440GT and you could probably talk it down a little more.

15x60 Nardini


His and hers 16x40s for $9000 (2 lathes) in Oakland. :grin:

Two Ganesh 16x40s
 
I called PM, and they clarified what Aaron W. said: one can cut all but 13 TPI without ever changing gears. When it comes to metric thread pitches, however, one is likely to have to change gears due to the inch pitch lead screw on the 1440GT.

This being the case, I will wait and save up longer (my wife says 2 years) for the PM-1640TL or PM-1660TL because I really do have an interest in saving time by doing everything on a QCGB.
 
here is the change gear chart. Mostly just the 13tpi is the odd ball needing a change gear.
Threading.PNG


Also No the taper attachment is not in the way of a DRO. I have both.
 
I guess it all depends on what you plan to do with the lathe and the frequency that you thread with metric. You will find that most lathes under 10K will have change gears and require a transposing gear to do metric. In addition, they do not provide you with a threading dial to do metric threading so the half nut cannot be released until you have completed threading. When you get into more costly and typically larger lathes, most have universal gearboxes. But they are also much more expensive and larger, tooling and chucks are bigger and a corresponding increase in cost. Larger motors are 3 phase so you either need 3 phase to your shop, a large RPC or something like a PhasePerfect which start at 5K. So you are climbing up a very steep slope once you get past the 1440 realm. The 1440GT gets you into a bigger spindle bore with a short headstock in a very functional lathe at the price level. If you only do occasional metric threading, then switching the transposing gear is no big deal, took me about 5 minutes on my previous 1340GT. The downside on almost all sub 10K lathes is that you need quite a few change gears to do different metric threads. So do your research and check the manuals.

Many individuals have purchased the 1440GT lathe I also have converted a couple to VFD operation and I can say they are very nice lathes at the price point, and their owners are very happy with this lathe model. I do not have have any recommendations for another lathe at this price point that I can recommend, there is a heavier VFD variant (w/o the larger spindle bore) which would be the 1440TV sold by QMT or Eisen as the 1440EV. I have worked with several individuals that have also purchased this lathe. The price has gone up significantly this year, I probably would opt for the 1440TL when you are getting into this range.

I do quite a bit (about 40%) of metric threading, and I had the opportunity to upgrade to a lathe with a true universal gearbox. I had already had the a D1-4 chucks and tooling BXA tooling so I opted for the ERL-1340, there are several variants as to motor/gearing and VFD models. It is a much heavier machine than the 1340/1440GT models. This lathe was a special order through QMT, if I could have handled a heavier lathe (and didn't have my current tooling) than I would have opted for the 1440TL (same cost).

My friend purchased the 1640TL variant from Acra (1640TE) and I can say it is a massive lathe for it's size and beautifully made. His thread on that lathe is below. You are talking about a big jump up in expense over the 1440GT and moving to larger heavier chucks/tooling. He does some serious machining so for him the 1640 size was more ideal. He has a 3400 sq foot shop with all sorts of heavy machinery. I installed the the VFD system on his machine that we ran off of the shop RPC.

When you start getting over 3HP most lathes will be 3 phase, so you need to factor in that cost. Most of the lathe owners I know use 3 phase motors on their lathe due to better surface finish and higher reliability, so either VFD or RPC is an additional expense.

So if you have the time to wait and money to burn, you can always get more, but the machine does not make the machinist.
 
Maybe a PM-1030V isn’t the best choice to cut mild steel.
I have never parted with power feed, and I don’t ever plan to do so.
There is nothing wrong with parting with the power feed. I used to be afraid to do so and I was doing myself a disservice. The machine will feed far more consistently than we can and that will help prevent the tool from getting buried. The PM1030v is more than capable of handling mild steel. I parted 1.5" 4140 to make a bunch of tool holders and 1.25" 304 stainless for a paid job on the 1030v with HSS parting blades. The 304 stainless I ran at a pretty high speed (Like 600 RPM off if I remember right) with the highest feed rate. When everything is tight, the machine can handle it. Even cutting that 304 that hard and fast (It was a RUSHED job), I only needed to touch up the tool every 10ish cuts.
 
I called PM, and they clarified what Aaron W. said: one can cut all but 13 TPI without ever changing gears. When it comes to metric thread pitches, however, one is likely to have to change gears due to the inch pitch lead screw on the 1440GT.

This being the case, I will wait and save up longer (my wife says 2 years) for the PM-1640TL or PM-1660TL because I really do have an interest in saving time by doing everything on a QCGB.

Will just give you more time to get better with the 10x30.

Hows the property thing going?

John
 
Eric, I purchased a 3-phase 1440 GT about two years ago and it has held up well. Never have changed gears for threading imperial threads. Not used in production so I don't push it and it responds kindly and accurately. Glad I made the jump and highly recommend the quality of the machine. Matt and Company are great to deal with-very professional.Good luck in finding your ideal Lathe.
 
Every time I part 2” mild steel round stock, I wish that I had a larger machine. The process can take up to an hour. I need to sharpen the blade 1 or 2 times during the process. The blade gets buried about 20 times in the process.
Sounds to me like parting is an issue for you - it was for me as well. Hopefully my attached document will give some suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • Parting on the Lathe - Good Practices.pdf
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Parting 2" steel on a lathe? That's what my bandsaw is for. Truing up the end then takes a couple of minutes.

I definitely don’t have the room and probably don’t have the money for a bandsaw.
 
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