-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Painting My Heavy 10 ....rant and question
- Thread starter Splat
- Start date
:lmao::lmao:
Apparently you don't know any of my ex-girlfriends! :nuts:
Apparently you don't know any of my ex-girlfriends! :nuts:
I've had good results with the tractor supply alkyd enamel. BRUSH it on, making sure it flows well by thinning with mineral spirits and you'll never spray paint again. It's way better. Also, don't use primer. If you're painting bare castings, go straight to the topcoat and that stuff really clings to the porous iron. Here's a pic of a SB lathe I did that turned out pretty nice:
Unfortunately there are differing grades of Acetone.
The good stuff does not leave any residue. We use it to clean parts that go into mil and civilian stuff. We use lab graded stuff. Comes in a 20 litre pail and it is not cheap, about 500 for a pail!
In the good old days, the body shops used to use Natha or white gas as it was also known, to do a final clean prior to paint, but remember that the paint was also oil based as well.
As stated above, brush on automotive paint with a bit of thinner mixed in to slow the flash off and allow the paint to flatten out. Also there is an additive to allow you to paint over something that may have silicone on it.
The good stuff does not leave any residue. We use it to clean parts that go into mil and civilian stuff. We use lab graded stuff. Comes in a 20 litre pail and it is not cheap, about 500 for a pail!
In the good old days, the body shops used to use Natha or white gas as it was also known, to do a final clean prior to paint, but remember that the paint was also oil based as well.
As stated above, brush on automotive paint with a bit of thinner mixed in to slow the flash off and allow the paint to flatten out. Also there is an additive to allow you to paint over something that may have silicone on it.
http://www.acbsphl.org/Tips_and_hints/Topside_Painting_Rolling_and_Tipping.htm
Interlux Brightside one-part urethane
Seattle Gray (optional)
Interlux Brightside one-part urethane
Seattle Gray (optional)
Well, the paint's finally cure and it's a helluvalot better than it was before. Dark navy blue is kinda depressing, IMO. The past 4-5 days of close to 100F weather has been insane but at least the paint's curing quickly. I think next time I do a machine I might try that Majic farm and implement paint.
Heck yeah....I was painting yesterday and it was 95F in the garage and really dry. My part of Indiana has not had rain in like 3 months now. Too hot for most things, but it's great for painting!!!! I've also painted in near freezing temps where the paint just never seemed to cure, and I'll take a hot day to paint any time.
I just wish I was doing my machinery painting right now....this weather is great for pressure washing castings and allowing them to dry in the sun on the driveway. The cast iron soaks up all that heat and really gets bone dry before it can rust...perfect for putting a nice coat of enamel right on the bare metal.
I just wish I was doing my machinery painting right now....this weather is great for pressure washing castings and allowing them to dry in the sun on the driveway. The cast iron soaks up all that heat and really gets bone dry before it can rust...perfect for putting a nice coat of enamel right on the bare metal.