Painting My Heavy 10 ....rant and question

Splat

Splat

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
I just got done spraying my Heavy 10's gear box cover and handles, as well as the base's doors/panels. I used Rustoleum's Professional series spray paint. I'm not a happy guy, folks. After scraping, washing, drying, then spraying with carb cleaner and wiping that off again I sprayed the paint. Looks great, I admit, but durable? Nope. This stuff chips off or scratches not as easy as regular spray paint but it's not that much harder or better. Big, big let down here. :( So now I'm looking at Majic's Tractor, Truck & Implement Oil Base Enamel . Tractor Supply has it and it's about 1 hour drive for me but from what I've read it might be worth it. A lot of guys on the 4x4 forums use it, along with the hardener, and are very pleased with it. Anyone here tried it or what other paint are you using?
 
I used the Valspar Tractor and Implement paint that Tractor Supply sold. It looks from their website they don't sell it any more and replaced with the one you are looking at. The Valspar has held up very well for me. No chipping or pealing and oil resistant. I used 1 qt Valspar Massey Gray + 1 pint Rustoleum gloss white on my South Bend lathes.

I found it here: http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/257295-tractor_implement_paint_1_qt.html#.T-HmurWNcpk

Good luck
 
First thing carb cleaner is no good for paint it leaves a resadue that will react with the paint. Use acitone or lacquer thinner. Second How long did you let it cure. Rattle can paint takes atleast a weak to fully cure. I use heligen flood lights to bake it on if I need to asimble sooner. I useed rustleum hammer coat on my machines. And it has held up verry well. An epoxey paint would be the best.
 
kd4gij said:
First thing carb cleaner is no good for paint it leaves a resadue that will react with the paint. Use acitone or lacquer thinner. Second How long did you let it cure. Rattle can paint takes atleast a weak to fully cure. I use heligen flood lights to bake it on if I need to asimble sooner. I useed rustleum hammer coat on my machines. And it has held up verry well. An epoxey paint would be the best.
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I would have said the same thing! :thumbzup: double agree'd on the Carb cleaner No No!
 
I've been in the same boat and tried it all. Two part epoxy paint is tough, but also expensive and a nuisance to spray. Alkyd enamels take forever and a day to get tack free and finally cure. POR15 is absolutely bulletproof but only comes in black.

Right now I'm restoring a Boyar Schultz surface grinder. I'm using a product from Rustoleum's automotive line: "Engine Enamel" in "Ford Gray" which is fairly close to the original color. Rustoleum claims it to be resistance to gasoline and oils and be good to 500 degrees F. Sounds like it would be good for machines, yes?

I already have gotten the painted panels oily or greasy and cleaned them up with mineral spirits with no evidence of damage as a result.

Also, toughness isn't all that bad after a week's time (for full cure).

It does have a few downsides:
1) You don't get a mirror finish: it's more like a semi-gloss.
2) Recoating often results in "solvent pop" which looks like tiny bubbles, so either apply really thin coats or do it once and be done with it.
3) Make sure you don't get too close with the spray: keep back at least 12". The propellant seems to "carbonate" the paint and if applied too thickly, the paint gets tiny bubbles in it.
4) The nozzle on the can is not a fan spray tip (I love those).
5) Not available in a can for brush painting. (I mixed up my own matching color based on Rustoleum enamels in the non-spray cans).

One more thing: the engine enamel sold in 11 oz cans not 12 oz cans. The local paint guy says there is an exception in the new VOC laws for cans less than 12 oz. This makes me think it might actually be good stuff.

What I can say for absolute sure, is normal Rustoleum or Krylon spray paint is horrible nowadays - especially the Krylon: poor color coverage. It seems like it's overly thinned. The Rustoleum pro line just seems to be thicker standard Rustoleum in a bigger can with a higher output rate.

I have a very old can of Metallic Gold Krylon that still works. The stuff that comes out of this can smells different than what we get today and is MUCH better paint in almost every way.

John
 
Splat said:
I just got done spraying my Heavy 10's gear box cover and handles, as well as the base's doors/panels. I used Rustoleum's Professional series spray paint. I'm not a happy guy, folks. After scraping, washing, drying, then spraying with carb cleaner and wiping that off again I sprayed the paint. Looks great, I admit, but durable? Nope. This stuff chips off or scratches not as easy as regular spray paint but it's not that much harder or better. Big, big let down here. :( So now I'm looking at Majic's Tractor, Truck & Implement Oil Base Enamel . Tractor Supply has it and it's about 1 hour drive for me but from what I've read it might be worth it. A lot of guys on the 4x4 forums use it, along with the hardener, and are very pleased with it. Anyone here tried it or what other paint are you using?
Click to expand...

I have BRUSHED on Rustoleum smoke gray right out of the can and it lasts well and is resistant. But if you need extra strength, you will need Benjamin Moore's Urethane Alkyd paints. Go to their store and see what colors they have. They are very tough and they will custom mix a gallon for you. I think it is M-16 or something like that.


Nelson
 
I should have added,

If you want the ultimate coat then think about baking the paint you use.

find an old oven(don't even think about using your wife's) .... get some rustoleum... paint bake and forget about it!
OR
you could have a coating service do it for you I have found their quite reasonable.

I tend to stay away from baking my paints on (unless necessary) for several reasons.
1: I can spray a coat NOW.... , 2: instant gratification, 3: touch up is a breeze now or later
and did I mention I can spray a coat NOW? (I love rattle cans)

I won't argue the baking method is imho. the best. but it takes more time and is not as easily re-touchable.
 
i dont know really but what comes to mind is the 2 part marine epoxy paints just about nothing takes it off and it dont fade.
steve
 
kd4gij said:
First thing carb cleaner is no good for paint it leaves a resadue that will react with the paint. Use acitone or lacquer thinner. Second How long did you let it cure. Rattle can paint takes atleast a weak to fully cure. I use heligen flood lights to bake it on if I need to asimble sooner. I useed rustleum hammer coat on my machines. And it has held up verry well. An epoxey paint would be the best.
Click to expand...

I know for a fact acetone leaves a light film, but I thought carb cleaner didn't. Learn something new every damn day. :biggrin: As for curing, the parts were sitting in the sun for 4 days, today being 100+. The can says fully cured in 24 hours but I guess I'm rushing it. Can ya blame me? :p I want to get my first lathe going! Yeah, I know....ya can't rush things sometimes.
 
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If your going to use it brush it with rustoleum, If your doing a museum piece the high dollar stuff may be what you want . Just remember once the chips start flying its really abrasive to any type of paint, some are better than others but they all take a beating with use.
 
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