Paint and rust removal using electrolysis

ltlvt said:
I like the idea of using the plastic light cover. I've been thinking of using some pvc pipe on the bottom. This would be great if I could find some. I have also heard the same about using the salt. Mr. Pete said that using stainless steel for the electrode causes sulfuric acid.
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Using washing soda or table salt for the electrolyte cannot create sulfuric acid regardless of what was used for the electrode. You would need a sulfate salt in order to do that.

Later breeze box fans had plastic grilles which should make an acceptable insulator. The reason that I welded up some scrap for the positive electrode is that the electrode is consumed during the process so I wanted significant mass fo it.

To answer another question about the positioning of the positive electrode, I found that the activity was greater closer to the electrode. I plan on welding on some extensions to cover the entire bottom of the tray for more uniform derusting. I would have used the other fan grille for the positive electrode except it wouldn't have lasted very long.

Something that I have yet to explore is the effect of more or less voltage.
 
RJSakowski said:
Using washing soda or table salt for the electrolyte cannot create sulfuric acid regardless of what was used for the electrode. You would need a sulfate salt in order to do that.

Later breeze box fans had plastic grilles which should make an acceptable insulator. The reason that I welded up some scrap for the positive electrode is that the electrode is consumed during the process so I wanted significant mass fo it.

To answer another question about the positioning of the positive electrode, I found that the activity was greater closer to the electrode. I plan on welding on some extensions to cover the entire bottom of the tray for more uniform derusting. I would have used the other fan grille for the positive electrode except it wouldn't have lasted very long.

Something that I have yet to explore is the effect of more or less voltage.
Click to expand...
In the video Mr. Pete demonstrated how surface area affects amperage by using an amp meter and raising and lowering the electrode. You are right about distance. When I first started the solution working I could see the action in the clear water. Much greater action next to the electrode positive. When spring gets here I will experiment with the higher voltage. the golf cart charger is marketed at 48 volts DC but it really puts out between 65 and 68 volts DC I haven't got anyone to verify what max voltage the charger is supposed to put out but I do know that to charge 4-12 volt batteries it takes a little over 58 volts DC . Another thing worth mention is better action with clean electrodes. So periodic cleaning of the electrodes will help the process work more efficiently.
 
I guess I'll have to wait for the thaw to see the piano hinge progress. This confirms that the process will freeze. When itis actually working it seems to give off heat. But not enuff heat I guess. LOL It looks like the bubbles even froze. The 45 mph north winds and below freezing temp was just too much for the solution. IMG_4306.JPG
 
I love the results, but found the process fussy. I have a bucket and battery charger dedicated to the process, and a bunch of rebar for anodes. The battery charger is constant voltage. As you said, the surface area of the anode and the path distance determine the amperage. The fussy part comes from the oxidation of the anode, which kills conductivity. I get about 30-60 minutes of good action before I'm at the wire wheel busting the rust off the rebar again. While it seems like a brilliant idea to use stainless, you would be oxidizing chromium all the way to 6+ and it would be water soluble, which is nasty toxic. So avoid that. Looks like your system is working great, though!
 
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