Paint and rust removal using electrolysis

ltlvt

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My first atteempt at using electrolysis to remove paint and rust . I am rehabilitating this ole Park Bicycle mechanic tool chest. I stated in the video that it might take 24 to 48 hours. As seen in the still picture that was only 1&1/2 hour. All i did is to take a paper towel and wipe the oil and loose paint and rust off of the drawer after soaking it in the bucket for 1.5 hrs.


 
Here are some still pictures of before and after. The black spots you see on the inside bottom picture is where a black felt like liner was glued. It rubs right off and is just as clean and clear as the back and sides.
 

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I haven't tried electrolysis for rust removal yet. Is the work piece positive or negative? What do you put in the water? How big does the other electrode have to be? Your electrode seems to surround the inside of the bucket, does that improve performance?
 
I haven't tried electrolysis for rust removal yet. Is the work piece positive or negative? What do you put in the water? How big does the other electrode have to be? Your electrode seems to surround the inside of the bucket, does that improve performance?
Negative to the work piece. I'm using 20 mule team borax laundry booster. (available in the laundry section of most local grocery stores) Arm and Hammer washing SODA also works. Not Baking SODA. It just simply makes the water more conductive. Surrounding the container is not necessary but does help. Most just use 4 rods placed at 90 degrees all 4 connected electrically. I just happened to have the springs that came out of a discarded reclining chair I reclaimed. The process works great but make sure the charger is unplugged before attempting to disconnect the leads from the object because the process creates hydrogen gas. Do in a well ventilated area. The 5 gallon bucked is my proto type. I have a 250 gallon IBC tote that I intend to modify so I can submerge the entire tool chest that I am rehabilitating. I have a 48 volt dc golf cart charger I may use for the big tank but I do not think it is necessary to increase the voltage. The bucket test was done with about 13.5 volts. The pictures are of the 48 volt charger that was dumped on the side of the road cause it quit working. The sensing relay was the only thing that was bad and to make the charger come alive I just removed the relay and jumped the 110 volt line to the board terminal. A simple spade connection already on the wire and board. You can see the relay mounted to the aluminum bracket. BTW the solution is 100% bio degradable. No acids are involved. BTW this also eliminates the need for caustic paint removers.
 

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That's an A+ for recycling. I would never have thought to keep those recliner springs, because what would I do with them? That, right there, is a great answer (now I wish I had some...).

I've done electrolytic rust removal a few times, never thought or heard about using it to remove paint. TIL.

GsT
 
That's an A+ for recycling. I would never have thought to keep those recliner springs, because what would I do with them? That, right there, is a great answer (now I wish I had some...).

I've done electrolytic rust removal a few times, never thought or heard about using it to remove paint. TIL.

GsT
It doesn't get talked about much for paint removal. Time will tell when I get the 250 gallon tank in operation and I submerge and entire K 56 Snap On tool chest in it. The chest has been re painted over the original paint . My plan is to use the process on it and then take my high pressure washer and wash it off. It will be spring time before I get it done because today it is below freezing and we will not see any reasonable outside painting weather until about April. I am reluctant to strip the chest until I can repaint them because they will just flash rust. On the mini chest that I used the drawer from for the test I am going to just strip the paint and rust and then spray clear coat on the bare metal. I think since it is a unique chest I will use unique paint method.
 
Here are some not so good pictures of an old piano hinge that Has had everything from PB blaster to transmission oil and heat trying to get it to free up. if this process actually works to free up the rusted hinge it is top shelf on my methods for rehab . I put it in the solution last night. It was suppose to be 60 degrees today and it is below freezing and 45 mph winds so I took these quick shots and put it back in the solution and then went out to my pasture and fed the deer their daily corn. the deer almost didn't get their daily treat it is so damn cold and windy. IMG_4304.JPGIMG_4302.JPGIMG_4303.JPG
 
Electrolysis is my favorite rust removal process... It can be dirty but otherwise produces no pollution or toxic stuff, just need a good donor anode, patience and coffee. I recently cleaned a pair of shock absorbers before repainting them.

electrolytic derusting.png

I have modified an old 12V adapter to power the process and just use a random old bucket to do it. Make sure the place you do it is either outside or very well ventilated as the process produces hydrogen :distrust:

This is not the shock absorber, though :cool:
DSC_5898.jpg
 
I used electrolysis to remove rust from some very rusty files recently. I used a litter box for the container and welded up a positive electrode from some old threaded ends from some silo staves. This went on the bottom of the tray, followed by an insulating grid made from a fluorescent light fixture grid and a negative electrode made from an old breeze box fan grille. The files were placed on negative electrode and a bath was made from a salt solution using dregs from cleaning out the water softener. I used a constant current supply and set the current at 10 amps which set the voltage at about 6 volts. After six hours, it had done a decent job of removing some very heavy rust encrustations.

If using a sodium chloride solution as the electrolyte, chlorine gas can be generated so the process should be carried out outdoors. It also seemed to me that the solution became quite alkaline due to chlorine being liberated , replaced by the hydroxyl ion so protective gloves are warranted. Washing soda can be used for the electrolyte, which will remove the possibility of chlorine gas but there is still some gassing evident. I would expect the gasses are CO2, hydrogen, and oxygen so the process is still best carried out outdoors.
Electrolysis  Bath.JPG
 
I used electrolysis to remove rust from some very rusty files recently. I used a litter box for the container and welded up a positive electrode from some old threaded ends from some silo staves. This went on the bottom of the tray, followed by an insulating grid made from a fluorescent light fixture grid and a negative electrode made from an old breeze box fan grille. The files were placed on negative electrode and a bath was made from a salt solution using dregs from cleaning out the water softener. I used a constant current supply and set the current at 10 amps which set the voltage at about 6 volts. After six hours, it had done a decent job of removing some very heavy rust encrustations.

If using a sodium chloride solution as the electrolyte, chlorine gas can be generated so the process should be carried out outdoors. It also seemed to me that the solution became quite alkaline due to chlorine being liberated , replaced by the hydroxyl ion so protective gloves are warranted. Washing soda can be used for the electrolyte, which will remove the possibility of chlorine gas but there is still some gassing evident. I would expect the gasses are CO2, hydrogen, and oxygen so the process is still best carried out outdoors.
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I like the idea of using the plastic light cover. I've been thinking of using some pvc pipe on the bottom. This would be great if I could find some. I have also heard the same about using the salt. Mr. Pete said that using stainless steel for the electrode causes sulfuric acid.
 
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