OXA QCTP on a Unimat? Trying to make a Christmas gift work for my tiny lathe

STEMtheMachining said:
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't considered that. And I can't even wrap my brain how to accomplish that.

M10 rod, threaded, and then use the mill to cut the bottoms in to the square nut dimensions, and then put it back into the lathe and turn down the proximal end to the necessary diameter for the unimats cross slide?

Am I on the right track?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes, sir you got the idea
 
STEMtheMachining said:
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't considered that. And I can't even wrap my brain how to accomplish that.

M10 rod, threaded, and then use the mill to cut the bottoms in to the square nut dimensions, and then put it back into the lathe and turn down the proximal end to the necessary diameter for the unimats cross slide?

Am I on the right track?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sorry double post
 
MERLIncMan said:
Every reason to buy new tools is a good, legitimate, and necessary reason to buy new tools.

House and shop are, however, necessary tools - so if buying Starrett would make you loose those, maybe think a little longer :laughing:

Bronze bushing from Lowes, Fastenal, or Lightning Bolt would probably be fine.
Click to expand...
I picked up a mitutoyo dial caliper and starrett depth Guage for $30 simply by mentioning to the pawn shop clerk how much time it would take me to get them back into serviceable shape.

In reality, it took an hour w/ an AP brush and some instrument oil.

So I think I came out ahead. :D

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
STEMtheMachining said:
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't considered that. And I can't even wrap my brain how to accomplish that.

M10 rod, threaded, and then use the mill to cut the bottoms in to the square nut dimensions, and then put it back into the lathe and turn down the proximal end to the necessary diameter for the unimats cross slide?

Am I on the right track?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
Ulma Doctor said:
Yes, sir you got the idea
Click to expand...
Any reason I can't reverse the operation and cut the flats last so I wouldn't have to take it out of the lathe until that step? Maybe go in with a parting tool to cut my narrower diameter, use the rough cutter to remove the material, then finish and break the edge?

Also, how would you suggest clamping the shaft to mill those flats?



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
STEMtheMachining said:
Any reason I can't reverse the operation and cut the flats last so I wouldn't have to take it out of the lathe until that step? Maybe go in with a parting tool to cut my narrower diameter, use the rough cutter to remove the material, then finish and break the edge?

Also, how would you suggest clamping the shaft to mill those flats?



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Clamp it in a collet block, put the block in the vice - or use V teeth/v block that is tight.

I'd likely do the whole thing on the mill from 10mm stock, no turning required (except maybe threads). Just mill some 2mm steps 180 degrees opposed, of a proper width to clear the T slot shoulders.
 
STEMtheMachining said:
Any reason I can't reverse the operation and cut the flats last so I wouldn't have to take it out of the lathe until that step? Maybe go in with a parting tool to cut my narrower diameter, use the rough cutter to remove the material, then finish and break the edge?

Also, how would you suggest clamping the shaft to mill those flats?



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You can do it any way you see fit!
There’s no steadfast rules to this game.
If you can visualize the end result, you can surely reduce the stock to your specifications.
I would do the lathe work first, then square the stud off in the mill.
The whole operation could be done on the lathe with some planning
 
MERLIncMan said:
Clamp it in a collet block, put the block in the vice - or use V teeth/v block that is tight.

I'd likely do the whole thing on the mill from 10mm stock, no turning required (except maybe threads). Just mill some 2mm steps 180 degrees opposed, of a proper width to clear the T slot shoulders.
Click to expand...
If you think the lathe is cute, you should see the vise. It's smaller than most toolmakers vises.

I'm so new I don't even know what a collet block is, but I'm guessing one for my machine would cost $$$ if it exists.

for perspective, here's the vise mounted in a Proxxon milling table, and a #10 x 3 inch screw.

So whatever mounting situation I come up with needs to fit onto that.

9004c40d9f5b26a78ce9d1a06ee4e503.jpg


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
The OXA may be too big for the Unimat. If you can make it work great. But another quick change option that is smaller is this:


search “A2Z CNC”. For the small quick change tool post. I have one on my Craftsman 6 inch lathe and it is just the right size, also have one on my Sherline CNC lathe and it fits well.
 
Cadillac STS said:
The OXA may be too big for the Unimat. If you can make it work great. But another quick change option that is smaller is this:


search “A2Z CNC”. For the small quick change tool post. I have one on my Craftsman 6 inch lathe and it is just the right size, also have one on my Sherline CNC lathe and it fits well.
Click to expand...
Any issues with flexing or anything?

@Ulma Doctor is this the one you were referring to earlier?



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top