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Outdoor veneer adhesive and finish questions.
- Thread starter Flyinfool
- Start date
Go for it. I love the look of a wood door too, and am resigned to the maintenance of mine for now. If the door is protected and North facing with a good 2k clearcoat it will probably last several years. Plus if you stay on top of touchups that helps avoid the complete refinish too.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,335
north facing eliminates the primary culprit of sun. Is there are good overhang to keep most of the elements at bay normally, and only occasional rain and snow that blows?
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2019
- Messages
- 2,211
There is an outside storm door so it will never get snow directly on it and only occasional rain IF I forget the close the storm door window. It will still see as low as -30°F up to +110°F on the outside with 65°F on the inside.
Here is a pic of the bottom of the door with the failed veneer. It is/was Mahogany veneer on a particle board solid door. I am guessing that there is only about 5% of the veneer that is actually still glued down all the rest you can feel it move when you touch it.
This is a pic of the gun that I refinished 20 years ago using a flat 2k automotive clearcoat. The process was first coat brushed on the bare wood. This raised some fuzz and the brushing pushed the clear into the wood grain. This was sanded dry just to remove the fuzz and knock off any high spots. Second coat brushed on and wet sanded smooth. Final coat sprayed on with nothing else done. The wood grain does not show at all in the final finish. I think if I go this route on the door I will use the same flat finish instead of the high gloss you would have on a car. The flat finish has gotten a bit polished up from years of regular use.
Here is a pic of the bottom of the door with the failed veneer. It is/was Mahogany veneer on a particle board solid door. I am guessing that there is only about 5% of the veneer that is actually still glued down all the rest you can feel it move when you touch it.
This is a pic of the gun that I refinished 20 years ago using a flat 2k automotive clearcoat. The process was first coat brushed on the bare wood. This raised some fuzz and the brushing pushed the clear into the wood grain. This was sanded dry just to remove the fuzz and knock off any high spots. Second coat brushed on and wet sanded smooth. Final coat sprayed on with nothing else done. The wood grain does not show at all in the final finish. I think if I go this route on the door I will use the same flat finish instead of the high gloss you would have on a car. The flat finish has gotten a bit polished up from years of regular use.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,335
I don't know if you have considered this. Instead of veneering a thin sheet, have you thought about using a thin sheet of ply glued over the door. same process, but a little more forgiving, since the veneer is already attached. Marine grade is up to the weather.. You just need to attach it to the door. And maybe route out the edges to allow the door seal to close.