Ordered An Ellis 1600 Need Blade Recommenations.

PaPa_Jack

PaPa_Jack

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Just ordered an Ellis 1600. I do a lot of hobby fabrication. Everything from E-wheels to tractor implements and building a portable sawmill. Mostly cutting cold rolled structural steel. In the past did most of my cutting with a torch and then a side grinder to clean it up. Got tired of all the grinding so bought this saw. Now I need advice on what blades to use. I know I need good bimetal blades, but not sure on TPI.

Jack
 
I use 10-14 variable pitch bimetal blades on my Doall vertical band saw , the tpi will depend on what your cutting , recommended 2-3 teeth per thickness of material
 
Mr Lane is spot on. Congratulations on your purchase of a great saw. You will love it.
 
I use a 10-14 variable pitch bimetal blade on my horizontal saw as I cut a lot of .120" wall tubing. One blade with coarser teeth would be nice for cutting solid stock.

That Ellis is quite the saw.
 
My brother and I farm and we build and repair a lot of things. We also have the Ellis 1600. We use 5/7 vari tooth gp blades from Ellis. We cut anything from 1/4" to 6" solid rod and any shape tube up to 10" with varying wall thicknesses 1/8" - 1/2". You just have to control the downfeed in the thin stuff.

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Well, I went and picked up my 1600 at the trucking terminal today. My first impression was amazement at the way it was crated up. I think you could drop it off the back of the truck at 60mph and not hurt it. :) Once it was home and unpacked, I read the manual and watched the videos, again. Simple setup. It comes with Ellis's GP blade installed. I think it's a 5/7 TPI. I had a piece of 3" round stock here so I set it up to cut as slowly as possible, as per instructions. It went through it like a hot knife through butter. The finish on the cuts was gorgeous. Even my son was impressed with the quality of fit and finish. This is truly one fine piece of American workmanship.
 
Your going to love that saw. I used to have the same one in my shop at work and wish I had one in my home shop. The way the head swings for angled cuts is quick and easy, a very nice feature. I used Lennox bi-metal blades and found them to work flawlessly for me. We cut a lot of angle and flats, 1/4" and up, so a 4/7 combination blade worked well for most of that. When cutting tubing or thinner metal, I used a 10-14 combination blade. Hope this helps your blade selection. Bill
 
I have the Ellis 1800 and have used a variety of blades. I cut many different profiles and thickness and have found the Ellis GP (general purpose) blade to work the best so far.
I recently purchased two blades on eBay: Band Saw Blades Cobra Bahco 11' \ 1x.035x5/8 3851-27-0.9 5/8 The information found on this blade claims no blade change for non ferrous to light steel tube to heavy profiles. One blade does it all....We shall see. I wanted to see if everything they claim them to be is true or close, plus I got a pretty good deal. If the blade pans out I will be ordering a 100' coil of 1/2" 0r 5/8" for the vertical band saw.
 
I've used the Ellis general purpose bi metal blades on my Startrite bandsaw for many years. I generally use the 10 - 14 or 8 - 12 variable tooth style. I would guess the saw gets used between 10 and 15 hours per month. At the current use rate the blades around 2 years if I don't abuse them. I prefer the 10 - 14 tooth blades, but they are slower if you have large stock to cut.
 
Well, I have had my saw for a couple months now and have a question.

I am on my second blade and it needs replaced already. I started out with the general purpose that came on the saw.
I was careful to check over all the tolerances and clearances as instructed in the manuals. My son and I cut a lot of 1.25 x1.25 tubing
with it over one weekend. Wall thickness is .125. All of a sudden the saw began bouncing badly. When we checked the blade,
about and inch and a half of the blade had no teeth. I installed one of the 10/14 blades I had ordered with the saw.
That blade has lasted until tonight. Again, the saw was cutting some flat stock, 1/4 x 2. All of a sudden the saw began bouncing badly.
Inspection found two places where an inch of teeth are totally missing. No idea why. Any suggestions? Both of the blades were broken in
as instructed and we do not run the saw with heavy pressure. It is also set on medium speed. HELP!!! This is getting expensive.
 
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