Opinion on Babbit vs Timken bearings

Also keep in mind you can pour your own babbit bearings, and spindle work is easier since you don't have to press off bearings.

My two lathes have bronze bearings, some say plain bearing machines produce a better finish on work but I'm not sure about that.
 
Think of the taper roller bearing versus Babbitt bearings thing as the difference between a model ford T and a top of the range modern BMW they both work . The Ford "T " is old and is totally outclassed by the BMW in capabilities and effectiveness. Ford T maxed at 29 MPH & nearly shook the occupants to death , the " Beemer " flies at 160 MPH & the occupants don't even know their moving .

And what kind of bearings does the BMW engine use for the crank and rods? Babbit of course...

bob
 
I think you will find that the shell bearings for the big ends & crank journals & other fine tolerance white metal coated sleeve bearings used in the engines of modern cars are a far cry from the old cast in blocks & hand scraped or reamed Babbitt metal bearings . That they are also a far superior alloy than the basic Babbitt alloy of old.

However these polymer bearing surfaces bad boys are even surpassing them ... check out this at federalmogul.com
 
Warning: Regurgitating 50 year old memories here.

I recall overhearing a discussion between my father and colleagues covering this subject. The consensus was that the tapered bearings were better because of lower maintenance (didn't have to oil daily), servicability (replacement didn't require tedious realignment), and high speeds. But the babbit/bush type handled higher cutting loads, damped machining chatter better, and could be adjusted loose for hi-speed, or tight for greater precision (than the tapered bearings).

Well, that was the mindset back then...
 
But don't make the mistake of attempting to use such in a dirty environment. Here's a photo of one that was made by Oilite after a 6 hour run. And this wasn't the worst one on the tool. I've been trying to get them to quit using the things for two years. But my solution, which 35 years ago could survive for hundreds of hours in the same environment, apparently isn't hi-tech enough.:talktogod:

Robert D.

However these polymer bearing surfaces bad boys are even surpassing them ... check out this at federalmogul.com

DSCN3384.JPG
 
Here is something else to throw into the mix. I have a 1942 SB 10L, Tool Room lathe which was like the top of the line. The specs say it has a high accuracy lead screw and also a taper attachment. This lathe uses the cast iron head stock as the bearings, when they wear out the lathe is done. It also uses shims. The one thing to keep in mind is that the old machines did not have the high speeds of today and therefore could run with something less than roller bearings. Mine still runs well and meets the original design specs.

Paul
 
Just curious what runs on the cast iron in the south Bend headstock does the spindle have some sort of bushing on it? Does it just run the steel spindle on cast iron?
 
"Just curious what runs on the cast iron in the south Bend headstock does the spindle have some sort of bushing on it? Does it just run the steel spindle on cast iron?"


A film of oil floats the spindle off the cast iron bore. That's why it's so essential on those lathes to make sure your bearing clearance is adjusted properly and you oil regularly with a nice thin oil. The older lathes had a "Total Loss" type of oil system where you pour oil through a gits oiler at the top and it eventually goes everywhere. The newer "side oiler" ones incorporated a sump, oil wick, and oil return system so you just have to make sure the resevoir is full.
 
In my opinion if there were 2 lathes of equal condition, one with babbit one roller, I'd pick the roller all day long. Like others have said nothing wrong with the babbit. But ease of use for the operator for adjusting preload sells me. We have these huge natural gas compressors at work and they have babbit bearings on some components....
 
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