It’s a heck of a lathe for what I paid. It’s a beefier version of the PM-1440 with more HP, Weight, and VFD. I’m thinking about getting a mill from them as well. I ordered the micro carriage stop, I thought it might help with threads, but it’s good to hear it really does make a difference
I use several mainly .223AI, 6mm Creedmoor, and I just had a beautiful 6BR built (Bat B action, Krieger 1.25” straight 26”, McMillan A5). It’s beautiful, that group in my profile pic is 10 shots at 100yds. First group after breaking it in.
.223AI is great everyone should have one...or three. The spindle size is 1 9/16” that’s the one area where the PM-1440GT was better.
Yeah I also decided I would not be doing any 50 cal stuff...1.56” is plenty. I will be chambering through the headstock when the time comes. My first project is going to be an outboard spider with micrometer adjustments. Should make indicating more precise and faster...my engineer mind at work. If it works I’ll also build one for the three jaw that can act as a soft jaw and precision alignment tool. What type of indicating rod do you use for bore indicating? Just trying to figure out what tooling I will need to get started
I started out using traditional range rods I’ve since changed to the Gordy method using grizzly rods in the tail stock. I’m thinking about changing my set up a bit and switching to a six jaw and using the set true to dial in. I’ve noticed when chambering longer cartridged calibers that when the reamer hits where the jaws are things seem a bit tighter (if that makes sense) I think with a 6 jaw the clamping force would be more evenly distributed around the radius of the barrel instead of just the four contacting points. I’m sure it does have much of an effect but it might save some reamer life. Spend the money now before I’m on a fixed income. I’d also really like to build I high pressure barrel flush system. I’m not sure what I’m going to do first. I’d like to play around with per boring my chambers to also extend reamer life. I just worry about chatter. Have you given any thought into how your going to true actions? I like the reamer method I can and have single pointed them I just feel the benifit was worth the extra time. I also wasted money on a bolt jig I wish I wouldn’t have. I find truing bolts on centers to be the best approach using a false center on the back side of the bolt and a center in the firing pin hole. I seen where you said your considering a mill. My opinion on that would be get the longest table you can mine is 49” and it’s all I can do to flute a 30” barrel using a BS style dividing head. You’re definitely in a better spot than it on finding a good used mill I see stuff come up on Craigslist all the time in the Albuquerque Flagstaff Durango areas. I had to pick mine up in Houston. I’m finding I do more and more on my mill than I do on my lathe in gunsmithing applications.
