No Fog Coolant Mister

After another session with my no-fog coolant device, i have it adjusted exactly right. It turns out that it just needed more fussing than I had expected, but it now works beautifully, and amazingly doesn't make much of a mess. the longer handles on the valves make them pretty easy to fine-adjust.
 
Good to hear that you have yours working well. I agree, the valves do require a bit of fussing to get them just right. I keep having trouble with the coolant valve slowly closing itself after I get it set. I attribute that to the rubber o-ring inside the valve. The o-ring always seems to pull the valve back a bit. I have been thinking about making some new seals out of UHMW and see if that resolves the setting problem.
 
I was finally able to muster enough smarts to devise a 3 hour CNC run - aluminum. The difference between none and a bit too much is REALLY twitchy on my coolant valve. Because I have the little handle and fiber-gland under the cap, I can set it so it's ok, but it is a struggle - I must have just lucked out on earlier short runs. So I'm going shopping for a finer coolant valve. I think they call them metering valves. But no mater what I do, there is NO FOG.
 
I finally caved in and bought a proper metering valve, a Parker 1715-003381100. I think I paid $24 for it on Amazon.

It has a wonderful micrometer adjuster which makes getting the right amount of coolant in the mix EASY.

parker1.jpg

This is how the whole thing looks:

fogless3.jpg

can never have enough detail:

metering-valve1.jpg

As you can see, this thing has gotten pretty bulky. the next move may be to mount the valves on another block of aluminum and just run the tubing into simple fittings on the mister itself.

In any case, the twitchiness on getting just the right amount of coolant in the airstream is gone.

parker1.jpg

fogless3.jpg

metering-valve1.jpg
 
Ooooo sweeeeet!! Would you mind sharing your source and a ballpark price on that valve?
 
Just what I've been looking for, thanks Terry.
I know you stated the nozzle isn't necessary, but got me wondering if using Mig welder tips might work and be an easy addition.
Thinking of experimenting with a flexible metal line as well.
 
Thanks Michael!! I think they would be well worth looking into. I found that the little rubber o-ring in the valves that I used is what is causing the problem there. When you stop turning the screw, the rubber pulls it back slightly, making it difficult to get it set correctly.

JPigg55, it certainly will not hurt to experiment a little. That's how these sorts of projects get better! I've still got the original nozzle on mine and it works just fine. As for the flex nozzle, I think it will give you trouble. Another member tried that some time back and the moving air was unable to carry the droplets inside that 'rough' tube. Straight, laminar flow seems to be an important part of making it work properly. With the flex line the coolant dropped out of the air and built up inside the nozzle until the air could manage to 'grab' it again and spit it out in spurts. Not trying to discourage you, but just letting you know what we saw happen before.
 
terrywerm said:
As for the flex nozzle, I think it will give you trouble. Another member tried that some time back and the moving air was unable to carry the droplets inside that 'rough' tube. Straight, laminar flow seems to be an important part of making it work properly.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I read that and saw the picture. Was thinking more of a flexible line like the old oil cans used, metal, spiral wound type. Might work, might not, never know until you try I guess.
 
Ah, yes. It may certainly be worth a try! Another material I thought of that may work would be the type of plastic that are used for the suction tubes at the dentist office. They are hard plastic, smooth on the inside, but can be bent and they retain their shape.
 
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