Next project: Craftsman 101.07301 6" lathe

I got the half nuts working properly thru a little fitting and moding. I don't think these Atlas guide and half nuts are exactly the same as Craftsman parts. The half nuts were a little thick so I had to file them down flush especially around the two pins as well as the guide. The casting was a little rough for smooth operation. I bought a couple of 1/4 x 20 x 5/8" allen head screw and that helped a lot. Rounded the detent pockets a little so the detent ball would lock in.
 

Attachments

  • 20200308_114729.jpg
    20200308_114729.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 26
  • 20200308_122744.jpg
    20200308_122744.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 25
Well, I hate to say it but it wouldn't much surprise me to learn that Clausing has outsourced some of their parts to China. But you should definitely call Clausing and let them know that the parts didn't fit until you worked on them a little.

By any chance, before you finally assembled the parts onto the carriage apron, did you check whether or not the old worn-out half-nuts would fit into the guide? It would be good to know whether the new half nuts were a little too thick or the slots in the guide were a little too thin.
 
By any chance, before you finally assembled the parts onto the carriage apron, did you check whether or not the old worn-out half-nuts would fit into the guide? It would be good to know whether the new half nuts were a little too thick or the slots in the guide were a little too thin.

Threw the broken ones away shortly after buying the lathe. (Big mistake but it "seems" to have worked out for me.)
 
Be advised that when Atlas changed (widened) the half nuts from M6-12 to M6-12A they also changed (widened) the guide from M6-13 to M6-13A, According to the two 618 parts lists, That happened between 1945 and 1950, So unless the old and the new half nuts are the same size, you should have bought a new guide with the new half nuts as they are not interchangeable.
I do have the M6-12A and M6-13A replacement parts but still didn't fit correctly. I believe the cam is the problem but have worked around it to make it work properly. Thanks for that info.
 
My new bushings arrived today so I drilled out the sheave with an 15/16 drill bit, pressed them in and polished the spindle down about .005" for a nice fit. Instead of using a 1/2" bushing on the scarred part of the spindle I used a 3/4" bushing for better support. Everything worked out fine except for my Chinese set of adjustable reamers. They "suck" combined with I never used them before after owning the 10 years and was a struggle. So I just drilled out the sheave and all is good!
 

Attachments

  • 20200308_224637.jpg
    20200308_224637.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 26
  • 20200308_224732.jpg
    20200308_224732.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 29
Getting close to completion. After puting the saddle assembly on the bed I found that the compound handle that I made hits the fingers due to it's closeness to the traverse handle . So I cut the outer ring off and knurled the outside of the inner ring and works quite well now. Will start working on counter-balance assembly and motor next. Waiting on three gears to arrive.
 

Attachments

  • 20200309_140707.jpg
    20200309_140707.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 32
  • 20200309_141613.jpg
    20200309_141613.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 33
I have one left over part and I don't think it goes to this lathe. Anyone recognize it? Looks newish and may have come with a few parts in a little box that came with the lathe. Fits a 1/2" shaft.

Still waiting for some gears to arrive with the sleeves and have to mount the motor and counter-balance.
 

Attachments

  • 20200309_220311.jpg
    20200309_220311.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 32
Last edited:
All my gears, spacers and gear inserts arrived today and I put it all together. My motivation is slowing down the last couple days and have been moving slow on the restoration. I have to make a tailstock locking handle, buy a 3/4" base board, install the motor and counter-balance assembly. Just kinda moving in slow motion!
 
Back
Top