Newbie Questions

[JimDawson]

Nice job on the indicator holder, looks good. You are doing it just like I do. The only thing I do different is turn the indicator 90* counterclockwise from your position, so you don't have to use a mirror in the rear. I normally set the nod first, then do the tilt.

I would say if the result is what you want, then you did it correctly.

 

[Bamban]

Jim,

Thank you for the tip on rotating the indicator.

 

[Bamban]

Final validation of the work. Today, I ran the table back and forth and the knee up and down then went back to the same position. Locked the table and knee, AND rotated the indicator, Thank you, Jim. The pictures show it all.








Then I relaxed all the lock downs. Is the minimal shift significant for a newbie trying to learn how to use these machines?








One thing I found out from the 1/8 of a page written instructions in the manual is like telling a new shooter on how shoot standing - hold still, acquire your sight picture, sight alignment, and break the shot without disturbing it.

Now, I was told I need to square the Kurt vice to the head... more reading to do and more questions to ask.

I am drinking from a fire hose with all these new things I know nothing about, the lathe is another story to come.

The journey continues.

 

[dave2176]

I think it was Ray C that suggested using a large bearing race when you sweep the table. Would this be so you don't pick up any dings or other table imperfections in your measurements?

Dave

 

[John Hasler]

I think it was Ray C that suggested using a large bearing race when you sweep the table. Would this be so you don't pick up any dings or other table imperfections in your measurements?

Dave

Right. It sits on the high spots defining the top plane of the table. It also carries the indicator smoothly over the slots, and lets you sweep a circle larger than the width of your table. I use an 8" disk out of an old disk drive but a bearing race may be better.

 

[John Hasler]

I think it was Ray C that suggested using a large bearing race when you sweep the table. Would this be so you don't pick up any dings or other table imperfections in your measurements?

Dave

Right. It sits on the high spots defining the top plane of the table. It also carries the indicator smoothly over the slots, and lets you sweep a circle larger than the width of your table. I use an 8" disk out of an old disk drive but a bearing race may be better.

 

[chuckorlando]

The way I would sweep the vise would be to stone it real fast, set it down and snug it eye ball square. Sweep across the top of the fixed jaw from one side to the other. If the vise and table are flat this should be good but if not then a shim will do. Then sweep the face of the back jaw from one end to the other. Tap the vice with the dead blow till you work out the variation and get 0 across the jaws

Final validation of the work. Today, I ran the table back and forth and the knee up and down then went back to the same position. Locked the table and knee, AND rotated the indicator, Thank you, Jim. The pictures show it all.








Then I relaxed all the lock downs. Is the minimal shift significant for a newbie trying to learn how to use these machines?








One thing I found out from the 1/8 of a page written instructions in the manual is like telling a new shooter on how shoot standing - hold still, acquire your sight picture, sight alignment, and break the shot without disturbing it.

Now, I was told I need to square the Kurt vice to the head... more reading to do and more questions to ask.

I am drinking from a fire hose with all these new things I know nothing about, the lathe is another story to come.

The journey continues.

 

[Bamban]

Thank you all for the responses.

On the bearing race. A friend in the aircraft industry is sending me a landing gear race, he said he will send the largest one he can. Based on the comments, this should be a useful tool. Will post pictures when I use it

 

[Bamban]

The way I would sweep the vise would be to stone it real fast, set it down and snug it eye ball square. Sweep across the top of the fixed jaw from one side to the other. If the vise and table are flat this should be good but if not then a shim will do. Then sweep the face of the back jaw from one end to the other. Tap the vice with the dead blow till you work out the variation and get 0 across the jaws

Chuck,

Here is what I did:

First, checked the top of the back jaw from one end to the other, looks good.





I happen to buy a set of 12 inch parallels so I thought I would clamp one of them and indicate at a larger radius. Cleaned the inside of the vice thoroughly to be sure there are no chips or dirt. The first parallel registered some delta across the 12 inch length.





Tried the other one, it indicated larger variance from end to end.





Thinking the shelf these parallels were resting on might not be true, so I indicated inside the vice, looks good.





The last step was to indicate inside, clamping surface of the back jaw. It took me awhile to get it to run true. Keeping the nuts somewhat snug and nudged the vice with a dead blow hammer (as you suggested) finally got it trued. Upon completion, I carefully, incrementally, alternately tightened the T nut set up. Verified the torque afterwards, resting at 22 ft-lbs. I have not seen the torque spec on these nuts, if anyone has any data, please let me know.





Did I do the procedure correctly?


Now, what else do I need to do to this machine before I start using it?


I am vertically challenged, I have to tip toe to reach the drawbar, thinking about building a pallet type arrangement around the work area between the lathe and the mill. I am open for any suggestions.

 

[chuckorlando]

Well the next step would be lube, stock in the vise, cutter in the mill and power on)