Newbie custom countershaft 101.07301

I think I would keep my eyes open for a decent countershaft setup. A lot of stuff is worth more in parts than as a whole unit and these little Atlas/Craftsman lathes seem to be a pretty extreme example of this rule.

My 6" cost me $300 bucks, I'm not sure where I am not as far as overall investment goes but it's well over what it's worth. That's OK as I've learned a lot and I have a working machine now. I think if I had to do it over again, with the experience of making my little 6" right I would have used the money go get a little bigger more complete unit. That being said it's a fun tool to have around.

K
I just want to get into it and see it make some chips before I grow my investment. I’m sure I will eventually buy a proper countershaft setup or upgrade machines.
 
I just want to get into it and see it make some chips before I grow my investment. I’m sure I will eventually buy a proper countershaft setup or upgrade machines.

I understand that completely, I was there not long ago. What I've found is I change the speeds somewhat frequently as the material and the diameter really has an effect on how well it cuts. I think with your current setup that would be kind of frustrating.

I don't have the two step counter shaft drive/motor pulleys. I have singles that are sized sort of in between. It works.

K
 
I'd mount the motor and frame set up like it is just use a pair of hinges . Let the motor frame weight be the tension. Belt change will be easy just lift and change.
 
I'd mount the motor and frame set up like it is just use a pair of hinges . Let the motor frame weight be the tension. Belt change will be easy just lift and change.
This is actually one of the ideas I had floating around.
 
I'd mount the motor and frame set up like it is just use a pair of hinges . Let the motor frame weight be the tension. Belt change will be easy just lift and change.
Exactly what I was going to suggest. IMHO, It would be the most straightforward way of doing it with is shown in the pictures.


Or option 2....If ....you would prefer to save a bit of space behind your lathe you could hang the whole motor setup as you have it vertically directly behind the head so that the belt is fed through the frame. You want the motor at the bottom where it would need to be hinged and then use gravity to pull back on the belt to apply tension.
 
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My original idea was to use some 6” bungee cords to apply tension from the rear of the motor assembly (using as many as needed for the desired tension). The bench the lathe is on I had planned to remove because it was nothing more than a junk collector but I have no problem keeping it for the lathe so having the large motor assembly behind it isn’t really bothering me at the moment. My shop is very small and I’m kind of at a loss with it at the moment; just waiting for creativity to strike.
 
How are you guys checking spindle runout? My chuck has rust on it so I can’t trust that and the collar behind the spindle threads has a few knicks in it. I checked the inside of the spindle and got about 2 thou runout.
 
Here is a good way to check for sipn run out : Put a travel indicator against the chuck (sand off the rust first) , chuck up a round bar , move the bar in the direction that will move the indicator . Note the movement , if it more than .001 we need to talk .
 
Here is a good way to check for sipn run out : Put a travel indicator against the chuck (sand off the rust first) , chuck up a round bar , move the bar in the direction that will move the indicator . Note the movement , if it more than .001 we need to talk .
So you’re saying to chuck up a piece of round stock, mount my dial indicator to measure chuck movement, and pull on the round stock towards to indicator?
 
Here is a good way to check for sipn run out : Put a travel indicator against the chuck (sand off the rust first) , chuck up a round bar , move the bar in the direction that will move the indicator . Note the movement , if it more than .001 we need to talk .

.001 might be a tad picky. My like new spindle probably will give .001 at the chuck depending on where you measure it. The closer to the spindle the better your numbers are going to be. My 3 jaw is kind of long so....

Honestly if you can feel some movement your probably going to have to start digging. I've found some vertical movement is normal, or at least it it is one mine. I think it's the way the head stock clamps down on the bearing. I need to measure mine again now that it's "worn in" a bit. It seem to cut pretty well (the old spindle would chatter and cut poorly).

K
 
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