Newbie and the Bridgeport

[Ceej0103]

It looks like you are switching the output side of the VFD. I've always read not to do that. I run the VFD output direct to the motor and use a separate control panel to tell the VFD what I want. Perhaps yours is designed to tolerate that, but just thought I would mention it just in case.

I honestly haven't a clue. The really terrible manual that came with it said input power comes in to L1/L2 (Leg 1/Leg 2) as well as a neutral and ground. Unfortunately the SOOJ I was using to test it doesn't have the 4th wire, so I used ground as a hot and wired L1/L2/Neutral. On the output side, I tied in to the 3 lugs that the manual indicates go out to the motor. Ground was off for the tests. Of course, I won't run it absent a ground when I actually install it.

Not quite sure what you mean...I'm not supposed to use the VFD itself as the control interface?

 

[Liljoebrshooter]

You should wire it to use the VFD as the switching device.
My Teco specifically says not to use a switch after the VFD.

Joe

 

[ttabbal]

I honestly haven't a clue. The really terrible manual that came with it said input power comes in to L1/L2 (Leg 1/Leg 2) as well as a neutral and ground. Unfortunately the SOOJ I was using to test it doesn't have the 4th wire, so I used ground as a hot and wired L1/L2/Neutral. On the output side, I tied in to the 3 lugs that the manual indicates go out to the motor. Ground was off for the tests. Of course, I won't run it absent a ground when I actually install it.

Not quite sure what you mean...I'm not supposed to use the VFD itself as the control interface?

You should use it. But it looks like you have the FWD/OFF/REV switch between the VFD outputs and the motor. That can damage the VFD at least from everything I have seen on it.

 

[Ceej0103]

You should use it. But it looks like you have the FWD/OFF/REV switch between the VFD outputs and the motor. That can damage the VFD at least from everything I have seen on it.

Gotcha. My plan is to get a decent VFD when I finish the machine. Hopefully it comes with good instructions vs. this chinesium crap I have now.

 

[Ceej0103]

You should use it. But it looks like you have the FWD/OFF/REV switch between the VFD outputs and the motor. That can damage the VFD at least from everything I have seen on it.

or just bite thE bullet and either buy or build a rotary phase converter. Then I don’t have to worry about VFD wiring.

 

[Dabbler]

@Ceej0103 Use the TECO 510 manual: not for the settings, but for all the wiring things, like what to do with the wiring and EMI protection. All VFDs are the same in those aspects.

 

[ttabbal]

I use Chinese VFDs. They work fine, but yes, documentation is lacking. If you choose to use phase converters, static or rotary, no issues there. I like the variable speed, but your BP head is a variable speed anyway, so you already have it, just a different way. My mill is a step pulley setup, so I have more use for the variable speed aspect.

At the end of the day, there's no "right" way. Use what works best for you.

 

[Ceej0103]

Day 14...

My care package from H&W arrived, but to my disappointment the elevator screw comes direct from their supplier and it didn't come today. Booo. So raising and lowering the knee will have to wait for another day. Part of that care package included a new ram locking bolt. You can see in the picture how worn one of them was. The other was fine. I'm not sure what kind of animal was tightening that bolt, but wow. He/she turned an acme thread in to a 60 degree thread...

I got the knee wipers installed and installed the wipers on the back side of the saddle. The front would be done too, but when I was buffing the wiper plate moments before installing it, one of the corners grabbed my buffing wheel and took off like a bat out of hell. Took me a solid 10 minute to find it....and then I realized I only found half of it. It broke in 2 pieces. I'll break out the TIG welder tomorrow and throw some welds on it to straighten that back out.

The knee lock took the better part of 2 hours to sort out. I could only get the shaft of the lever in about half way and then it would gum up so tightly that I was sweating trying to budge it back and forth to free it up and slowly back it out. Did this maneuver about 20 times until I have the passage cleared of whatever crap was causing the issue. The handle is still a little firm...wondering if that just how the knee lock handles are? It turns super easy until the gib is seated low enough to clear the wiper plate. Once I get the gib down that far, then the handle start to tighten up as I imagine the knee lock is getting pushed by the gib as the gib taper becomes wider. Anyone have a similar knee lock that's pretty tight?

Got the feed nut bracket dropped in the saddle and put the Y axis lead screw in place. I'm attaching a video of its operation as I have an issue there as well. When the dial lock nut is backed off, it spins like butter. When I lock the dial, it binds up and starts rubbing the housing to the point that it's tough to turn. I looked at the lead screw assembly image and I don't see any shims/washers in there on the image. I do have a stack of shims, but for some reason I thought all of those belonged to the power feed. What am I missing here?

 

[brino]

Part of that care package included a new ram locking bolt. You can see in the picture how worn one of them was. The other was fine. I'm not sure what kind of animal was tightening that bolt, but wow. He/she turned an acme thread in to a 60 degree thread...

Wow! It is hard to believe that worn, mis-formed thread came from a machine with such low wear on the dovetail slides......

You are making such quick progress. Congratulations.

-brino

 

[hwelecrepair]

Ya, its just bound up. When you have the dial nut tight, you should see daylight between the dial and the bracket. Shims arent always needed, and they arent always not needed. Just shim it so that there is sunshine between the two and you will be fine.

Jon