New Tool Box

Please do show more details. Also include info/pictures of the base it is sitting on. Is that a table or dedicated base?

Chuck
Chuck,
Here are some more pictures of the drawers, box . The first picture is of the side of a drawer showing the grove the drawer guide rides in.P1080336.JPGHere are all of the drawers laid out. The two in the bottom right are .75" thick, next three, to the left are 1" thick,then 1.5" and 1.75". P1080338.JPGThis shows the drawer bottoms, made from .032" stainless and covered with pool felt from a local yardage shop.P1080337.JPGThis is the inside of the box showing the divider providing the shear, I used dado joints to give more glue surface.P1080339.JPGHere is a shot of the drawer guides.P1080340.JPGThe rack for the fly cutter heads, on the other side is a rack for collets.P1080341.JPGThe door pulls were turned from some .063 aluminum stock, top 4 pulls are .50" in diameter, bottom two are .063. I thought they would look more proportional on the larger drawer faces.P1080342.JPG The whole box (except for the fly cutter and collet holders) was ripped from two 1"x 6" x 6' pieces of red oak. I first split the boards to 2.75" then split them the other way to .320". That became my material that I glued into planks to cut the box sides, top and bottom from. I recessed the top .5" to create a place to set tools and the drill index. That I dato cut in for more glue area. The two attachments are one of the side of the box and the one on it's side is the base I set the box on. It was a stand for a grinder that was given to me a while back. The box has a foam rubber sheet glued to the bottom, actually a cheap floor mat from Lowes, to help hold it on the pedistal.

P1080336.JPG P1080337.JPG P1080338.JPG P1080339.JPG P1080340.JPG P1080341.JPG P1080342.JPG P1080343.JPG P1080344.JPG
 
This might be a lot to ask, but could you pull several drawers and provide close-up photos of the glide system inside the box?

Thanks!

Oops just posted while the photos were being loaded! :holdphone:

Thanks again! That's nice!
:thumbsup:
 
I wonder how this design would work out if you replaced the drawers with solid "drawers" with cut outs for tools?

I've been contemplating doing something like that with ~30" x 12" x 1.5" solid "drawers" that have been milled for tool cutouts. The space under the overhang for my work bench would handle something with nine or ten drawers at 1.5" height. Not as nice looking as this project, but functional. 2x12 wood planks are cheap material.
 
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I wonder how this design would work out if you replaced the drawers with solid "drawers" with cut outs for tools?

I've been contemplating doing something like that with ~30" x 12" x 1.5" solid "drawers" that have been milled for tool cutouts. The space under the overhang for my work bench would handle something with nine or ten drawers at 1.5" height. Not as nice looking as this project, but functional. 2x12 wood planks are cheap material.


Probably would work just fine. I had thought about doing the drawers that way after viewing some of the work done by Frank Ford. If you go to his website you can see how he made his bottoms.
Here is his address http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/. You could use a ball end mill to hollow out the bottom of your drawers. I still may do something similar for for my tap drawer, especially the small ones.
 
I too love the design. That should serve you well. I bet it will become a favorite part of your shop. I wonder if it would be good to add some heavy duty casters so you can roll it to the work area?
 
The drawer guides were cut from pieces of oak that were .30" x .30" x 9", there is a center divider in the middle of the box which gives it shear. I cut groves, with my mill, in the sides for the drawer runners to fit into, they were cut .15" deep. The sides of the drawers have a matching cut, again with the mill, to a depth of .015" The drawer guides were glued to the side of the box. It took a lot of playing around to get everything to align up for fourteen drawers. If I build another one I will just make the guides half as thick and glue them directly to the side of the box.

As for the dishwasher parts. Last year we had a dishwasher failure and I salvaged the stainless steel front off of the door. The sheet metal was .032" thick and I used that to make the bottoms of the drawers. Tony Wells gave me advise on how to use a slitting saw on my mill to cut wood. I slit the sides, fronts and back of each drawer and slid the steel sheets in the bottom.

Thanks for the 'update' !! Still think it looks great. Would have to make something similar, but ... guess with my limited tooling in a 5m^2 workshop that is stuffed already I'd have some difficulties, although the final 'product' would
certainly help :) I'll keep the design in mind, though !

Cheers,

Helge
 
i really like the idea and use of the stand (lowe's comment is too true)
 
Probably would work just fine. I had thought about doing the drawers that way after viewing some of the work done by Frank Ford. If you go to his website you can see how he made his bottoms.
Here is his address http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/. You could use a ball end mill to hollow out the bottom of your drawers. I still may do something similar for for my tap drawer, especially the small ones.

very good web site
 
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