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- Sep 5, 2020
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15 for the crossslide and compound gibs and 30 for the carriage gib
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New to me 1939 Atlas 101.07301
- Thread starter topcat41468
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2020
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- 43
Just an update on progress. The bed was replaced with a newer one, the original has some really bad spots that would require resurfacing.
I had to replace the base on the end stock, the gib screw pockets were completely cracked open and the screws didn't bite at all.
New gibs on the carriage, and new half nuts and new bracket for the 12A/13A. Had to file the back side of the half nuts, they bound when the 13A bracket was completely tightened down.
I did not take the painted parts down to bare metal, but did de-grease them, and sand them down.
I have to reassemble the cross slide and compound. The lead screw and banjo parts just came out of the ultra sonic cleaner. I should have those parts all together tomorrow.
Then I'll clean up the shop again, and start on the headstock and counter shaft.
The motor I have is almost done, I opened it, cleaned it and replaced the start capacitor. IT started fine for a a little while, but now the start winding is not not working, I have to kick start it. It might be a stuck contact or the capacitor again.
The answers to my questions and the threads from others on here have been hugely helpful.
I had to replace the base on the end stock, the gib screw pockets were completely cracked open and the screws didn't bite at all.
New gibs on the carriage, and new half nuts and new bracket for the 12A/13A. Had to file the back side of the half nuts, they bound when the 13A bracket was completely tightened down.
I did not take the painted parts down to bare metal, but did de-grease them, and sand them down.
I have to reassemble the cross slide and compound. The lead screw and banjo parts just came out of the ultra sonic cleaner. I should have those parts all together tomorrow.
Then I'll clean up the shop again, and start on the headstock and counter shaft.
The motor I have is almost done, I opened it, cleaned it and replaced the start capacitor. IT started fine for a a little while, but now the start winding is not not working, I have to kick start it. It might be a stuck contact or the capacitor again.
The answers to my questions and the threads from others on here have been hugely helpful.
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- Sep 5, 2020
- Messages
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I'm looking for a few misc parts to replace on the headstock.
The spring and ball parts are all missing everywhere. I found in the 101.07301 manuals 1/8" ball and 3/16" ball. but can not find anything on spring sizes.
I'm looking for a replacement thrust bearing. The I have will work but.... its has a rough life. I cleaned it out of old oil and grease and gunk, re-oiled it. Its usable. I just can't find sfk 465233. it measures up at 3/4" bore, 7/16" thick and 1-7/16" OD.
I have a gear issues, but they are replaceable and I can find them as needed. (like the indexing on the bull gear is stripped out).
I do have to replace the sleeve bearings. Is mymachineshop.net the best place to get these (from Joel?).
The spring and ball parts are all missing everywhere. I found in the 101.07301 manuals 1/8" ball and 3/16" ball. but can not find anything on spring sizes.
I'm looking for a replacement thrust bearing. The I have will work but.... its has a rough life. I cleaned it out of old oil and grease and gunk, re-oiled it. Its usable. I just can't find sfk 465233. it measures up at 3/4" bore, 7/16" thick and 1-7/16" OD.
I have a gear issues, but they are replaceable and I can find them as needed. (like the indexing on the bull gear is stripped out).
I do have to replace the sleeve bearings. Is mymachineshop.net the best place to get these (from Joel?).
As to the ball detent spring sizes, i don't know - but getting anything the right diameter and cutting it to length ought to do the trick. I know the thrust bearing issue has come up on here before. You might search old discussion threads. Or i see them from time to time on that big on line auction site.
Sounds like the indexing lock pin slid into the bull gear, and they just kept running it anyway??? Too bad. At least you can run it without the indexing. I've had my lathe a few years now and have yet to use that bull gear indexing. When i've needed to index on the lathe, i mount a gear with the correct number of teeth on the back end of my drawbar and set up a temporary pin to engage the gear. Not that i'm avoiding the 60 hole bull gear indexing, i just needed different increments.
About the sleeve bearings, I remember sourcing the replacements for my lathe. The I.D. / O.D. sizes are common for the main spindle bearings. The length of one of them is not. It was a lot cheaper to buy a standard sized off the shelf cintered bronze bearing longer than needed and trim the length to size. The length is not a close tolerance measurement, so if you're cutting it with a hack saw and grinding / filing it to final length you'll be just fine.
Any local bearing house should have them, or you can get them on line from McMaster Carr or other sources. Consider buying two sets. Use one and keep the other for 10 years down the road when you might want to change them again.
paulh
Sounds like the indexing lock pin slid into the bull gear, and they just kept running it anyway??? Too bad. At least you can run it without the indexing. I've had my lathe a few years now and have yet to use that bull gear indexing. When i've needed to index on the lathe, i mount a gear with the correct number of teeth on the back end of my drawbar and set up a temporary pin to engage the gear. Not that i'm avoiding the 60 hole bull gear indexing, i just needed different increments.
About the sleeve bearings, I remember sourcing the replacements for my lathe. The I.D. / O.D. sizes are common for the main spindle bearings. The length of one of them is not. It was a lot cheaper to buy a standard sized off the shelf cintered bronze bearing longer than needed and trim the length to size. The length is not a close tolerance measurement, so if you're cutting it with a hack saw and grinding / filing it to final length you'll be just fine.
Any local bearing house should have them, or you can get them on line from McMaster Carr or other sources. Consider buying two sets. Use one and keep the other for 10 years down the road when you might want to change them again.
paulh
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
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Or if you need anything else from the factory (such as the indexing pin detent spring and ball) to make up for the 1# minimum that UPS charges, Clausing has or recently had the correct bushings for the 101.07301 spindle.
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I finally have the lathe done, and am finishing the counter shaft. I had to JB Weld repair one of the counter shaft castings but I think its ok, while I wait to have the part come up on Ebay (m6-21).
I had a box of pulleys and have sorted thru them, I found the correct ones marked for the counter shaft. However, I'm stumped on the motor. I dont have anything marked M6-429. Does anyone know the actual pulley sizes. I've been googling and will continue to do so, but thought it would be worthwhile to ask.
Otherwise I'll call Clausing.
Also, I have plenty of springs and ball bearings if anyone needs some. They were a couple dollars for std McMaster Carr items.
I had a box of pulleys and have sorted thru them, I found the correct ones marked for the counter shaft. However, I'm stumped on the motor. I dont have anything marked M6-429. Does anyone know the actual pulley sizes. I've been googling and will continue to do so, but thought it would be worthwhile to ask.
Otherwise I'll call Clausing.
Also, I have plenty of springs and ball bearings if anyone needs some. They were a couple dollars for std McMaster Carr items.
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- Dec 25, 2011
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The drawing for M6-428 should be in Downloads, which, as a donor, you have access to. M6-428 is the older 1/2" bore pulley. The only difference between it and M6-429 is the motor shaft bore. The later pulley is made for 5/8" diameter motor shafts.
The OD of the two grooves is 1-3/4" and 3-1/4". The groove to groove spacing is the same as on the 2-step
countershaft pulley.
The OD of the two grooves is 1-3/4" and 3-1/4". The groove to groove spacing is the same as on the 2-step
countershaft pulley.
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Note that as the 1/2" motor shaft diameter is getting to be not too common, if you need to you can easily convert M6-428 to M6-429 by enlarging the bore to 5/8" and running the correct keyway broach through the vestiges of the keyways. But DO NOT run any of the pulleys with only the set screws of you will ruin the motor shaft when (not if) the set screws loosen,to allow the pulley to spin on the motor shaft.
A tip - if you have trouble keeping the set screws tight enough to keep the pulley from trying to walk off of the motor shaft, purchase the cheapest split collar of the correct ID and put it on the end of the shaft pushed up against the pulley. I did that about two years ago and the pulley hasn't moved since.
A tip - if you have trouble keeping the set screws tight enough to keep the pulley from trying to walk off of the motor shaft, purchase the cheapest split collar of the correct ID and put it on the end of the shaft pushed up against the pulley. I did that about two years ago and the pulley hasn't moved since.