New to hobby my first project

mhope43

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Hi all I just got a mini lathe last week, not used a lathe since high school in the 80s
I made this scribe yesterday I was going for a lightsaber style I don't have a mill so I'm not sure how to create the fluted finial on it, right now it's just around ring shape
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Welcome to the forum. Nice work on the scribe. To machine the flutes you could try putting an end mill in the chuck on your lathe and mount the scribe to a tool holder on the compound. What kind of tool holder do you use?

I made a Norman Style QCTP.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/norman-style-qctp.79705/

It would be easy for me to mount the scribe in one of my tool holders.
 
Thank you!
I have an OXA quick change tool post, I have heard of people doing that, just never seen the set up, I use a Vevor 7 x 14 .mini lathe, suits my needs so far
 
To machine the flutes you could try putting an end mill in the chuck on your lathe
You shouldn't really put endmils in lathe chucks. The hardness of the chuck jaws and the hardness of the endmill shank is not a good combination as regards grip.

The endmill could grab on the brass and slip and damage the endmill or the chuck jaws or/or the work piece, or worse still, get dragged out of the chuck. That would definitely damage the work piece and could 'damage' the operator.

If an endmill is going to be attached to the spindle of a lathe, it really should be via a collet chuck.
 
That's a darn sight more involved than the first part I made when I got my first lathe. Turning, grooving, boring, and knurling! Impressive.

If an endmill is going to be attached to the spindle of a lathe, it really should be via a collet chuck.
Or maybe a one-off split-bushing held in a scroll chuck if someone new to the game doesn't have a collet chuck yet.

You should probably take care not to lose concentricity, though.

In a pinch, I think this should work if you didn't want to risk holding an end mill in the chuck jaws directly:
  1. Use a hacksaw or bandsaw to cut most of the way through the side of a piece of stock that's a slightly larger diameter than your end mill and about as long as your chuck jaws are deep. You want the slit deep enough that it will compress without too much effort in the chuck jaws.
  2. Fill the periphery of the slit with shim stock of some sort. Cut up pieces of an aluminum can, or even a popsicle stick would work.
  3. Tighten the chuck jaws on the stock until the shim stock is gripped tightly.
  4. Face and bore a hole the same diameter as your end mill all the way through the bushing you're making.
  5. Carefully loosen the chuck jaws until you can just remove the shim stock without moving the bushing in the jaws.
  6. Insert the end-mill in the bore and retighten the jaws.
I'd use aluminum or something soft for the bushing so it bends easily and won't require as deep of a slit. The process above avoids removing and reinserting the bushing from the chuck jaws.

In case @mickri hasn't discovered this yet: in general, removing a part from the jaws of a scroll chuck pretty much guarantees you'll never get it re-held in exactly the same position (you'll lose both radial and axial alignment).

Since the flutes are ornamental, though, you could aways just use a half-round file to create them (I'm one of those weirdos that enjoys hand work).

For small radius flutes, you could also broach the longitudinal flutes: hold a radius cutter on it's side in the tool post, manually move the carriage right-to-left, pulling up a chip, feed in a couple thou, repeat until you're at depth. In steel, it would be tough going with a large radius once you start making a larger chip.

There's almost always a way with a little ingenuity.
 
Thank you for the encouraging replies! When I start something I tend to go all out! I'm going to look at some of the options suggested, I agree that my lathe won't handle and end mill
 
my lathe won't handle and end mill
Well it will, you just need a collet chuck (or temporary shop-made collet stand-in as @Rex Walters has suggested).

Something like this would be what you'd want (you'd have to get the collet chuck that matches the size of, and bolt hole pattern on your mini-lathe's spindle flange):


You'd need collets too, obviously, and Little Machine Shop sell sets of those too:


It might not be something you'll buy straight away but a collet chuck is a very worthwhile purchase.

As said, you can use it to hold endmills to do some limited milling on your lathe but it's main purpose is to hold a work piece and allow you to repeatably take the work piece out and put it back in and still maintain concentricity (say, for example, you wanted to work on both ends of a work piece).
 
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Collet chucks are very good. An ER-32 set is not too expensive, in the scheme of things. They tend to have low runout and make it easier to flip a piece and work on the other side without having to indicate the part for runout. If you are doing more than one part, the second one will be concentric with the first. I find them a joy to use, and often leave the collet chuck on the lathe, hoping that the next project can use a collet.

Down side is the limited range of the collet chuck. As you might know, a normal 3 jaw chuck is not guaranteed to center to the same place even for the same diameter work piece. Sometimes that's important. If you want to center to the same place you either use a collet chuck, or use a 4 jaw chuck and manually indicate it.
 
V2 underway, I ordered some tungsten carbide scribe tips, one will get mounted in the front when it arrives.
I'm having issues with parting, I ended up using a saw to separate it, I watched videos but still keep getting the bit jammed or it doesn't cut.
 

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