New old bandsaw question?

[markba633csi]

Myself, I always use oil when I cut steel. Dry for aluminum though.
Mark

 

[dlane]

Pic 2 looks kinda crooked to me, is blade 90 to fixed vice jaw ?

 

[Dabbler]

If it was in the first few minutes of cutting andy you were conditioning the blade (that is on the slowest setting) when it happened, I'd take it back.

- First I'd check the saw in every aspect and even try a carbon steel blade for a good result and then complain. I've never had a bad blade, but I've heard fro a few guys that claim to have see one or 2.

 

[GarageGuy]

Pic 2 looks kinda crooked to me, is blade 90 to fixed vice jaw ?

I think it's just a funky camera angle. Here is an overhead shot:

The blade guard in the lower part of the photo is not straight, but it's just a guard. The blade itself looks pretty straight. I put a machinist square on the table to make sure the blade is perpendicular, and it looks very good.

 

[GarageGuy]

I checked to make sure that the blade was perpendicular to the table, and it looks very good.

I also measured one of the 1/4" slices I cut from a 2" piece of 1018 steel. The cuts are .012" from being parallel. Since both sides were cut, would that make the blade .006" from perpendicular?

Just checking your suggestions and looking for anything I could have overlooked. Thanks for all your replies!

GG

 

[GarageGuy]

Myself, I always use oil when I cut steel. Dry for aluminum though.
Mark

I don't generally use oil when I cut on the bandsaw because my old saw doesn't have a drip pan and it would have made quite a mess on the floor. The "new" Famco does have a drip pan, so that may be a good option now.

Thanks!
GG

 

[GarageGuy]

If it was in the first few minutes of cutting andy you were conditioning the blade (that is on the slowest setting) when it happened, I'd take it back.

- First I'd check the saw in every aspect and even try a carbon steel blade for a good result and then complain. I've never had a bad blade, but I've heard fro a few guys that claim to have see one or 2.

I've never conditioned a blade. I never knew it was a thing. I just cut like normal.

I may buy a carbon steel blade and give it a try. Blades are kind of expensive for this (106"). I saw a roll of carbon steel blade material on eBay shipped for ~$90. I may go that route. We have a blade welder on the Powermatic bandsaw at work that I could use.

Thanks!
GG

 

[kvt]

I solved the drip and chips problem by taking one of the wife's old large backing pans and put under it when using it. Of course I had to get her a new one. I would ensusre you have some fluid on the cutting Does not have to be much, I have stripped the teeth on a couple of blades also.

Ken

 

[Silverbullet]

The top end when you lift it will it wiggle on the hinge pin ? That would let it shear teeth off. Rebuild the cylinder and use it with slow feed and try slowing the blade down . Or maybe the blade itself is defective. Tooth area to hard or not uniform throughout.

 

[GarageGuy]

The top end when you lift it will it wiggle on the hinge pin ? That would let it shear teeth off. Rebuild the cylinder and use it with slow feed and try slowing the blade down . Or maybe the blade itself is defective. Tooth area to hard or not uniform throughout.

I wasn't sure, so I checked tonight. There doesn't seem to be any side play in the pivot.

I tried slowing the blade down, and it seemed to make the blade load higher and bigger chips. Then I looked at the chart on the cover, and it says I should be running much faster. It indicates that for 2" carbon steel I should use a 10 TPI blade (I'm using a 14/10), and should be running on pulley #3 which is the second fastest blade speed. I tried it, and it did seem to cut smoother and with less blade load. Maybe I have been looking at this the wrong way. Conventional wisdom says slower is better, but the machine plate says otherwise. I'm sure this blade is orders of magnitude better than anything that was available in 1952. I'll try this for awhile and see what happens.

Thanks!
GG