New New New...to Machining Metal

Just a suggestion, place some scrap Formica or enamel covered Masonite against the dry wall behind your mill. coolant/oil will soon badly discolor the drywall, can be wiped from the others. You'll want to be able to clean it occasionally.
 
I am looking at the LMS bundle withe the vise and collets. I suppose the belt drive will be in the works for longevity of the mill. I have removed all the packing grease I can find but are there more locations?

How do I remove the drill arbor and install the collet?

Thanks everyone for all the input!!!
 
Look locally for your consumables.
Most hardware stores carry "Oateys" dark cutting oil for threading pipes in the plumbing isle.
Kerosene or WD40 works for aluminum.
Brass and bronze need no fluids.
HSS woodworking bits such as countersinks will work if used gently.
Welcome aboard!

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!
 
Removal of the drill arbor depends on the machine. I would hope that there is a draw bar at the top of the spindle that you can loosen and then give a bit of a smack to knock the arbor loose. The arbor is likely either a morse taper or an R8 taper.
 
Welcome! to both the forum and to the world of machining. You can remove the drill chuck shank by removing the protective cover and accessing the draw bar. I believe in the manual the cover is part 126 and the draw bar part A. You should be able to do the 80% lowers on the machine, work slow and read the instructions well. Most of all have fun! all kinds of "gun stuff" you can make with a mill. LMS is a good source for information and parts for these machines. As far as cleaning goes, Im not sure how the good folks overseas apply that brown thick goop they ship them in but it seems to make its way everywhere. I have found the best non toxic stuff to remove it is the purple degreaser sold at Auto Zone and a dozen other places.
 
Hey Bear,

welcome aboard. I'm new here too; great site.
One thing you should not do is get rid of your drill press. You'll find that it still has some features that make it a valuable addition to your collection. It probably has a longer throw than your mill (distance from the head to the table) which will come in handy.
Also, along with a vice, look into getting yourself some table clamps. In a nutshell, they can do all the things that your vice can't.
Have fun making chips.

Jon.
 
When you go to remove the drawbar, just loosen it about 1/4" and give it a few sharp hits with a hammer - brass is best. If you loosen the drawbar all the way first, the end threads will be mushed over. The more threads that are engaged, the longer everything will last.
 
Uglydog said:
Bear,
Welcome to HM!
You've entered a great place.
I don't know anything about AR Lowers. But, there are people here that do.
Nor do I know anything about mini mills.

Do you have your mill powered up?
Do you know how to lube her?
Does the spindle turn easily (machine off). Or are the belts to tight/loose?
Before you start purchasing anything work through the manual.
Know and understand how each dial and knob works.
Inventory your tooling and think about what your short and long term goals are.
Yes, those goals will evolve. But, based on what you currently know and believe take a careful assessment of where you are.

Consider checking back here frequently and update us. It's likely that someone has experience with both ARs and your mini!

Daryl
MN
Click to expand...

Excellent advice, read the manual, then read it again. If are new to metal machining, try to book in a course at your local high school trade centre, depends what you have in your area. You really do have to learn to walk before you can run.

Do not ever overload your machine, have patience take small cuts, understand how to select cutting speed.

Spend a lot of time on this forum, ask questions.

Good luck.
 
Update,
I have cleaned and lubed the mill.
I just got a decent vise and an assortment of tooling from LMS.
Removed the drill chuck and installed the collet.

Question-Is the X-axis (front to back) supposed to be difficult to move i.e. The hand crank is tight even after loosening the lock handle?

I have two or three different types of lubricant for the aluminum. I have WD40, mineral oil, and a nonstaining cutting lubricant. Which would be best and what would be a good application method?
 
Make sure your table locks are loosened and the gib adjustment screws not too tight. The X are usually in the front and the Y on the sides below the table .
This guy has a good 4 video series that covers alot of the basics .
Go down the local scrap yard , get some aluminum cutoffs . Usually 50-55 cents a pound , good for initial practice and later for test cuts and building things . Get some steel there too .
When I got a mill , a machinist buddy said to avoid carbide tooling while learning , they break easier and cost more . You can find some HSS tooling cheap and if you want to cut harder material, M42 is still pretty cheap and very tough .
Keep an eye on Ebay for new old stock cutters , end mills , etc . I've used alot of oils I had in the garage as cutting oils , some I thinned out with kerosene .
If you get expensive items initially and make a mistake, drop an indicator or crash a tool then it's not as costly . You learn alot in a few months .
There are alot of good youtube channels and with different ways to do things.
Check out the youtube channels mrpete222 , metal tips and tricks , toms techniques , keith rucker and if you weld check out weldingtipsandtricks

Good luck with the mill. And watch out , the mill will make you want a lathe !
 
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